2012-04-12 Siurana, Esperó Primavera   Leave a comment

First ones at the crag today.  Marieta De L’ull Viu, 6a+ and then the more 7a than 6c+, Pepito Va De Curt which is awkward, polished and hard.  Didn’t even want to redo it for the redpoint.  Graham is opening Papágora, 7b+ and it looks quality…

Papagora, 7b+   2012-04-21 07 Espero Primavera

As Justin (above, snoozing) wants to go over the road to L’Aparador, I get on this grand route.  Kudos to Graham for opening it, it was a little tricky to clip in places, but with some great and powerful moves.  My first 7b+ lead and as Graham said with a little work, it’s doable.  The top section, the scoop at about 2 thirds, and there was a move about half way up that I’d need to work, but I’ll come back to it soon.

Talking to Pantxi the other day, he’s put some new routes up in L’Aparador and with my updated guide book we head over there.  While the others do Petitona, 7b (below) we think we’re on a 6c but something’s wrong.  There was a move half way up on the super sharp vertical section that was way harder than 6c, then getting towards the top I had 2 more draws than the guide said.  I also had to abandon it at the nails hard crux.  I didn’t like the rock either – much like Reserva India, that north facing glass-like sloper smoothness that is dirty and dusty and doesn’t give you much confidence.  To finish we do the alpine style La Padrina Se Ha Canviat De Doctrina, 6a.

Petitona, 7b

Have a safe flight, guys.

6a+   6c+   7b+   ?  6a   Photos

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Posted 2012/04/22 by allend66 in Espero Primavera, Siurana

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