2012-04-30 Siurana, Esperó Primavera   Leave a comment

Primera Linea, 6a for Mari to play with then I run up Pelandruska, 6b just to get warm.  Panxi El Cabrón recommends I do the 7a before the 7b so try the super polished Se M’Apaga La Baldufa, 7a and rest a couple of times, – doable though not my style of climb.  Instead of repeating it for the redpoint I do El Menjapindula, 7b opened by titan Oscar.  He redpoints it on the second try.

El Menjapindula, 7b

It’s an old route and I’ve done 7b+ that was as hard or easier.  The first crux has me off about 5 times, then getting past that the upper crux where the sloper crimps are owns me.  A great route but it doesn’t know who its father is.

Oscar being on form opens Els Flutants, 8a+ and he suggests I try it.  I clip the 1st then 2nd and have to back climb to try for the 3rd draw as the small hole needs to be taken with the other hand.  The hard part is just so thin.  The draws being close together I A0 up a few then continue climbing to the long drawn out section up top.  Another crux that I manage to bypass but it’s good to get a taste of nails hard stuff.  Oscar has a few tries but we’re losing light and he leaves the draws for tomorrow.

6a   6b   7a   7b   8a+


Posted 2012/05/02 by allend66 in Espero Primavera, Siurana

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