2012-05-05 Siurana, Esperó Primavera   Leave a comment

Paco looking well shaky after 3 weeks without climbing, on a 6b warm-up Records Oblidats – I do the 2nd pitch out of curiosity.  Now to mop up the 7a redpoint I worked with Panxi, Se M’Apaga La Baldufa.  The previously sent Remena Nena, 7a threw me off a the crux, but what a sweet route.

Se M'Apaga La Baldufa, 7a   Remena Nena, 7a

After watching the others fight Remena, I open Llet De Boja, 7a+ which I see as doable, but earlier in the day.  The start is very fine and balancey, then there’s a few long passes (& a red herring!) but it feels exposed the way you’re always climbing up and to the left of the draws, making a fall a tad too swingy.  After my strength ‘training’ last week, I just get another easy 30mtrs under my harness, as I’ll need stamina for Papágora, 7b+ & Mandrágora, 7b+, so we finish with Penitenciagite, 6b,6a.

6b,5   7a   7a   7a+   6b,6a   Photos

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Posted 2012/05/06 by allend66 in Espero Primavera, Siurana

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