2012-05-10 Siurana, L’Aparador   1 comment

Lama, the beast, wanted to warm up on the 2-pitch alpine corner crack of El Ginestell, 5+, 6a – not my cup of tea but someone had to clean it.  A foothold broke on the first pitch causing pain and bloodshed – a lesser man would have been screaming for morphene.  It was also 40 mtrs so a rethread for my 70mtr rope meant extra faffing.

After this, Lama flashes Rauxa, 7a+.  As I said yesterday, today certainly was another day – after trying it and blowing it in the vertical crack, going right today on the crimps got me the redpoint.  Sent and owned…

Damian’s project, the gruelling 38mtr hard 7b+ Llargaruda was next on Lama’s crushlist.  I abandoned it at the first long crux as I really didn’t fancy a good scrap today.  Xerinola, 7b+ would be sent before this brute, and that’s still pending – maybe when Graham’s back in town.  With the unrelenting sun encroaching it’s time to decamp over to Siuranella Est for the late afternoon shift.  I try to onsight one of the 7a I’ve had my eye on for a long time, the spectacular Lo Dejé To Blanco but I fall (twice) at the crux.  Looks like there’s a new 7a variant since last we were here too, going left from the 3rd bolt.  I rest for a while and try it again but my fingers are toast and I only fall once at the crux – I’ll send it next time.

Alex and Blas both work and send L’Escamarlá, 7c+ and both comment on the similarity between this and Petitona, “7b” in L’Aparador.  It’s not a 7b…


5+,6a  7a+   7b+   7a   7a


Posted 2012/05/10 by allend66 in L'Aparador, Siurana

One response to “2012-05-10 Siurana, L’Aparador

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