2012-05-13 Siurana, El Pati   Leave a comment

I reach the chain without falling on Crosta Panic, 7a+ which is nice and crimpy on the lower section, with the big thuggy roof section above.  Paco arrives and he opens my pending project ¡Ay Mamita! 7a which I then flash – what a beautiful route.  Sending it on my 1st attempt augured well for the things waiting for me over in Siuranella Est, where we decamp to now that the midday sun has arrived at El Pati.

Ay Mamita! 7a

Javier opens Lo Dejé To Blanco, 7a but still needs to work the crux.  As I’ve decided to have this as a 1st climb of the day to send it (lower 24mtrs are 6b/+ with the 7a crux sequence of 5 movements, then 6a to the chain), I opt for the new, as yet unnamed 7a variant that shares the first 3 bolts then goes left.  Very nice, a little dirty and some of the small stuff is breaking off but still a very nice route.

?, 7a?

I got pumped after the roof bulge and my fist was slowly opening just before I could reach the salvation of the vertical slab with good feet.  Down.  Second try and beta got, this will be sent on my next time.  We all finish on the not so good D’Estranquis, 6c.

7a+   7a   7a   6c   Photos

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Posted 2012/05/14 by allend66 in El Pati, Siurana

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