2012-05-15 Margalef, Culample4   Leave a comment

Yohann the machine is back in Spain so we warm up in shade in Sector Reggae just while there’s the last of the sun touching Culample4Minyons Forever, 6b & El Cid Cabreador, 6b+ onsighted, we now find shade in Culample4.  We both almost send the excellent Fanatic, 7a+ but the change in climbing style leaves me super pumped and I’m off a sloper boulder in the last quarter of the route.  All the routes here are 30mts and great quality.  Monofingers, two & 3 finger pockets are certainly a change from Siurana’s crimp style.

Besame Mucho, 7b+   Besame Mucho, 7b+   Escaquietor, 7a+

Yohann has his 7b+ project lined up, Bésame Mucho and what a grand line it is.  He opens it and I try it with much welcome beta from below.  I top out but with 3 or four rests, it’s brutal on endurance.  After this I open Esquietador, 7a+ which is phenomenal but I can’t work out how to do the crux.  I come down and retry it after Yohann puts up the last 3 draws.  We leave it open for a return tomorrow…

6b   6b+   7a+   7b+   7a+   7a+   Photos

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Posted 2012/05/18 by allend66 in Culample4, Margalef

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