2012-05-16 Margalef, Culample4   Leave a comment

My hands feel fat.  It’s getting increasingly difficult to, er, clean my nose with the increase in digit girth.  Still, it’s a small sacrifice to make to send long and hard climbs.  And there’s plenty of them in Culample4 in the cluster of sectors known as L’Obac Del Roger, Margalef.

Culample4

Yesterday we left open Bésame Mucho, 7b+ and Esquietador, 7a+.  Taking extra draws, I warm up on El Pancho, 7a but don’t send it.  Completely redpointable, but as a warm-up it pumped me a little.  Yohann warms up on Esquietador, 7a+ and I try it, still with the crux a little foggy in my mind.  The problem is leaving the end of the crack / fissure and going right onto the face.  We swap beta and for my next try I’ll try Yohann’s method.  Meanwhile, we both get on Bésame though I abandon it out of tiredness.  My hands and feet hurt after 5 consecutive days climbing and my body is just plain exhausted.  I hope I’ve left enough in the tank though for my last try on Esquietador, 7a+.  I get to the crux, and do the unobvious – instead of clipping the draw way out right and right hand taking the crimp just below it, I drop down right hand to waist height into an inverted pocket, right foot out right, flag my left foot way out right and take the crimp with the left.  A beautiful sequence of some 10 moves that follows and I’m through it clipping the next draw.  I fall trying it first time then get it on the 2nd.  What a quality line!  Poetry in movement.  Definitely on my ‘send’ list and is highly recommended.

We have a beer and pack up very tired and very happy.

Margalef

7a   7a+   7b+   7a+   Photos

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Posted 2012/05/19 by allend66 in Culample4, Margalef

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