2012-05-20 Margalef, Culample4   Leave a comment

Escaquietor, 7a+ continues to frustrate as Remy, yesterday on a 7c hangs at the crux.  Instead of warming up on it the same, I onsight Mas Vale Ser Freky Que Maricón De Playa, 6c which has a thin start then solid climbing for 30mtrs.  After a short rest I get on the 7a+ and start the crux sequence well: clip quickdraw dropping right hand to right low inverted pocket, both feet onto the face, flag left foot out right, left hand crimp, left foot high, left hand pocket, right foot knee high, right hand high pocket, push up, left hand half knuckle mono, left foot onto the original crimp, push up to deep 3-finger pocket but I’m falling not quite getting into the 3-finger.  I bail to save strength for the next try, and hopefully, send.

Yohann sends Bésame Mucho, 7b+ and after a rest I retry the 7a+ but today is not the day.  I need full strength for the shallow pockets that are also at bad angles.  I clean the route, remaining to be done, maybe later this week.

Escaquietor, 7a+

6c  7a+   7a+

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Posted 2012/05/21 by allend66 in Culample4, Margalef

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