2012-07-15 Gorges Du Tarn, Shadocks   Leave a comment

Mehw Power, 8c+

We start the day in La Grand Toit (The Big Roof) to see a friend of Yohann’s send Mehw Power, 8c+.  He falls spectacularly on the first try but sends on the 2nd.  Nice work if you can get it.  Meanwhile we warm up on Gueule D’Acier, 6c Lorenzo onsights & I flash.  Then we move over to Shadocks.  Not a difficult sector this – long routes but two 7a are the most difficult.

Only 6b but very sustained, I blow a flash of 6-eme Sens.  Kicking myself but not bothering for the repeat, I opt instead for a nice looking 7a Maitre Lardon and onsight it.  A beautiful line that starts diagonally, to a vertical wall then takes a nice crack overhang past an ants’ nest to the chain.  Tricky to clean but well worth doing.  Unfortunately the other 7a has had the first two 8mm bolts removed, so the next hardest route I can try is Plus Jamais Peut-etre, 6c+.  Big and thuggy but still graceful in the movements, I onsight this as well and finish the day very happy.

Plus Jamais Peut-etre, 6c+

6c   6b   7a   6c+

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