2012-07-21 Gorge Du Tarn, Shadocks & L’Amphi   Leave a comment

Warming up was a joy in the left hand crag up at Shadocks.  With Taz, I send Relent D’Ail, 6a, Granulamétrie, 6b+, 6 biers, Café, 6a+ and then the pumpy Gare De Jouage, 6c.  All beautiful climbs, all worth doing.

Relent D'Ail, 6a   Tarn Gorge   L'Homme Presse, 7c

Properly warmed up we set out to the Amphitheatre for our project, L’Homme Préssé, 7cLorenzo tries it and I try it and then Taz rewrites our sequence of moves, halving the number.  We were doing (from the good jug to clip the start of the crux), RH up straight goodish jug, RF out right, LF up central, LH shitty lateral crimp-sloper, RF central, LF flag out left for balance, RH undercling pinch, both feet back over right and up slightly, dyno LH to a shitty gaston way out left, then there’s a bit more poncing about with the feet and hands to get the good jug to clip… then there’s only the 7a crux move about 15 mtrs above to think about.  Taz starts as normal for 4 moves, then blocks on the shitty-sloper to RH reach crossing over left to the gaston.  Kudos… we both try it and it ain’t happening.  Lorenzo reverts to his method and gets another bit further, it’s now looking sendable.  I’ll work on Taz’s way over the next few sessions.

6a   6b+   6a+   6c   7c


Posted 2012/07/26 by allend66 in Gorge Du Tarn, L'Amphi, Rockclimbing, Shadocks

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