2012-08-25 Capçanes, Carrasclet   2 comments

Well, it seems that the mountains of Montsant and Prades are once again restricted due to the heat and risk of wildfire.  Today we early start to checkout a newish zone, sector Carrasclet by the village of Capçanes.  An impressive wall, only semi equipped (and with more to come), I’ve been told that this will feature in Dani’s new guidebook Tarragonaclimbs.

2012-08-25 02 Carrasclet

At the far right hand side of the crag (next to the dry waterfall), there’s some easy climbs (5, 5+, 6a).  We warm up on the first lines after the virgin wall to the left – the 2nd line a 6b+ that was pure quality.

2012-08-25 01 Carrasclet

With the anchor in sight, I start to go out left, and I have 90% of my weight on my left foot, with a right hand to steady and a left hand gaston that’s not really helping much.  Instead of pushing up, I down-climb a little as I have a nagging feeling in my head “Don’t trust that foothold!”.  Sure enough, when I ease weight off the left foot, a fist-sized lump of rock comes away but I still get my flash.  There was no movement in the foothold, but experience just told me it was wrong. 

After this, the 7a to the right was nice and I almost flash but mess up the last crimp in the last sequence after the last bolt.  Redpoint it next time, but not today as Javi is working his 7c+ project Carrasclet, & I want to play on it.  I start to lead it, get to the 6th bolt and have to leave it.  A solid 7c move that isn’t even the crux at the in situ extender.

Carrasclet, 7c+   Carrasclet, 7c+

After I belay Javi’s redpoint, I top-rope to clean it.  The crux is powerful and technical, with a lot of weight shifting.  An excellent route this, it has crimps, pockets, tufas and slopers.  And the rock is super abrasive – maximum grip.  Quality.

6b+   7a   7c+   7c+

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Posted 2012/08/26 by allend66 in Capsanes, Carrasclet, Rockclimbing

2 responses to “2012-08-25 Capçanes, Carrasclet

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  1. Hey Ali, Holly and Mac here (people from the red van). We have just heard about this crag (Capsanes) and are pretty keen to learn more. We have a topo for barranc del torto, but no directions!!! We are climbing at Mas riudoms loads (cos it’s been cold) but as I feel the weather getting warmer…maybe soon to change venue!!! Please can you email us with info about this crag and any others in this area (we live in Flix) I hear Gandesa has some good routes, but when we went to the cafe to get the topo they said they don’t have it anymore!! Thanks, Holly and Mac

    • Hey guys, how’s it going?

      I’m afraid I have some bad news… Javilongo (who sent the 7c+) tells me the crag is on private land. Since climbers have been arriving by the busload, equipping routes without permission, leaving rubbish and feaces (and paper) everywhere and generally not respecting the place, it’s now closed to climbing. I’ll investigate it a little and get back to you but don’t hold your breathe…

      Regretfully,
      D

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