2012-09-07 Chulilla, Oasis   Leave a comment

We arrive in darkness, so can’t see the sheer enormity of the rock available to climb until the morning.  We are in climbing area 4, sector Oasis which is new and in very good shape.  The panorama below is opposite, good for winter climbing!

Chulilla Climbing Area 4   2012-09-07 020 Oasis

First line is a 7a+ (6b/+ to 1st chain) in a corner, where everybody starts, though because I don’t have a topo can’t say what it was called.  But it was beautiful.  Reasonably steady climbing up to the crux which was thin, then a technical tufa to the chain.  I fall at the crux but once clipped above, lower to retry the whole sequence.  There’s a block move with no feet and a bit of a dive for salvation which I get the 2nd try.

?, 6b+,7a+   Miguel Gomez, 7a

After this I go on to both flash Miguel Gomez, 7a and annoy everybody else as they have up to 6 tries to send it.  A beautiful climb, I struggled to stay on it at one point, but clipped the chain ok.  I found it a hard 7a, some say it was down-graded from 7a+ but either way, it’s on my CV.  Very nice.

I tie in to try and send the 7a+ from before.  Same story – fall at the crux, get past it 2nd try, clip in above, lower down and do the whole sequence clean, though this time, I go right onto good holds instead of taking the technical tufa left.  I’ll get it next time.

No we relocate to sector Competición to try a classic – 6 ceporros, 6c+.  Its a boulder style roof and I abandon it, though it looks nice.  This is in climbing area 1, just by the village, and it’s a little polished.  Chulilla – an excellent school.

7a+   7a   7a+   6c+


Posted 2012/09/12 by allend66 in Chulilla, Competicion, Oasis, Rockclimbing

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