2012-09-16 La Mussara, Les Campaniles   Leave a comment

Instead of driving to the refuge, descending for 40 minutes, climbing and then the gruelling ascent, we park in Vilaplana, ascend for maybe 1 hour to Les Campaniles, a good quality sector but ‘La Mussara’ hard – you can comfortably add a grade to each of the lines.  I wasn’t going to do but had to clean a new route, Plena de Vida, 5+, slightly alpine in style but not at all bad.  Excellent rock quality.  Xell romps up Sipegotimato, 5+.

06a.Les Campanilles

Now I open the hard 6b+, Malla Folla which had a pass at the third clip, and the real crux at the bulge roof.  Even after the thin crimp undercuts to get feet up, there was a dyno, then after the large pockets another thin reachy move. 

The line to the left, No Despistis, 6c was superb crack climbing, with a nails roof to get over.  Layback half of it, take a small three-finger pocket change body direction and up, but easily 6c+.

Amor Vertical, 6b+   Bat Lou, 6a+

Tired, we move on to the excellent Amor Vertical, 6b a very nice climb, and then one of the new routes to the right, Bat Lou, 6a+.  With the sun now completely on the rock and very hot, we leave the other routes for another day and take the Tosques route back down to Vilaplana, stopping for a refreshing swim and snack.  I arrive at home very tired.

5+   6b+   6c   6b   6a+

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Posted 2012/09/17 by allend66 in La Mussara, Les Campaniles, Rockclimbing

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