2012-10-12 Tivissa, Moleta De Vilella   Leave a comment

With my project Gollum, 7c in the rear-view, we cruise past Masriudoms to Tivissa for the inauguration of a nice new little sector, Moleta De Vilella which is part of the Coves De Vilella.  Excellent work by Josep Castellnou on the bolting.  New rock – maximum grip but maximum grip, though prone to breakages, until it’s all settled down, we do La Conca, 6b technical crack climbing, and then L’Indi Que Mira, 7a.  Super thin and crimpy, I need a second go to send it.  Very nice.

Now on to chef’s dish of the day – How, Rostre Pal·lid, 7b+.  As I wasn’t going to onsight this, I didn’t mind a bit of beta, and even then it still surprised me.  Exactly as Josep told me, you’re climbing some nice fairly difficult moves, then bam the crux sequence is upon you.  I work the sequence a few times, make it to the next bolt then lower down to consolidate the learning.  There’s also a block move to clip the high chain.

How, Rostre Pallid, 7b+

After a rest I retry it.  Half way through the crux sequence I ping off the left-hand mini-crimp pinch.  My mistake… I raised my left foot then the right, should have been the other way round.  To get round the block move at the chain, I make another side pull and a Gaston to get higher then clip safely.  But I have no more energy to try a clean send.

To warm down the last line on the wall, Te De Roca, 6b was thin and very sharp.

6b   7a   7a   7b+   7b+   6b

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Posted 2012/10/13 by allend66 in Moleta De Vilella, Rockclimbing, Tivissa

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