2012-10-23 Siurana, Can Gans Dionis   Leave a comment

Opting for racking up mtrs instead of difficulty, we head to Gans Dionis where there are some new routes.  We warm up on Benji, 6a and then the 6a+, Nunca Mais has Javi pulling on a draw, with its technical style.  I had Agonía, 6c+ pending after last time, and so now work out the beginning.  With my excellent beta, both Jack & Cris send it.  Annoyingly I had to repeat it after getting the start right, but then pinging off the thin side-pull at the end of the difficult section.  Here’s Cristina flagging onto two thin crimps from a side-pull:

Agonia, 6c+

We only do another difficult 6b, El Mellau that shares a super polished start with one of the old routes.  We both flash, but only just.

Stopping at Can Melafots on the way back to the tent, we both do what is possibly the hardest 5+ in the world, Llobató.  A new climber just starting to lead 5+ would have a shock with these ‘easy’ routes in Melafots.  Old school.

6a   6a+   6c+  6c+   6b   5+

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