2012-11-08 Montblanc, Rocquer Del Penitent   Leave a comment

Penitent, now published in Tarragona Climbs and this month’s Vèrtex magazine could well get popular very soon.  Though the approach is still a ball-ache, albeit less so now they have cleaned the scree from the dirt track, driving is a lot easier though low cars will bottom out. 

We warm up on one of the oldest routes here, El Portallunes, 6a that was a hard corner layback. 

El Portallunes, 6a

I try Silverado, 7a, which was just like being in Siurana’s Can Melafots – all flat ledges and triangle-shaped angles.  I miss the onsight by the nasty ending, and it’s not so nice as to repeat it.  Wanting to try the sector’s ‘classics’, I have a look at and walk away from El Templo Del Sol, 7a+ when I see the boulder start, but get onto The Velvet Underground, 7a+

The Velvet Underground, 7a+

A beautiful route, though I would mention the fact that there is a lot of loose rock, so the belayer would be wise to wear a helmet.  Velvet has a difficult move to get over the roof crack, then the crux below the anchor.  I missed a hidden 2-finger side-pull, but I don’t feel like repeating the route for the send today.  Moving on to En El Nom Del Pare, 7a the top section was very thin and balancey.

Cool down climbs on the very nice Bar Coyote, 6c & Chicharrón De Pirarucú, 6b.

6a   7a   7a+   7a  6c   6b

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Posted 2012/11/08 by allend66 in Montblanc, Rockclimbing

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