2012-11-12 Siurana, Esperó Primavera   Leave a comment

I throw the draws up on Papágora, 7b+ for my warm up, taking it easy a couple of bolts then a rest at a time.  The beta to clip the crux bolt is different if the draw is in, so I A0 it – clip my long sling pulling from the draw below, lower down to the rest before the crux, then do the whole sequence first time.  After the crux, a hands-free rest then 6b+ to the chain.

Papagora, 7b+   Papagora, 7b+

With both Graham and Justin trying it, to keep warm I do Marieta De L’Ull Viu, 6a+ with Mike, then a short rest and I’m back on my redpoint attempt on Papágora.  With all the beta worked out, I get to the crux OK then take a couple of minutes to try and depump.  I’m nearly through the crux, just one more move to get the right foot up high but my left hand just will not stay closed on the crimp above the bolt.  I’ll have this beautiful line next time.  Probably.

7b+   6a+   7b+

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Posted 2012/11/12 by allend66 in Espero Primavera, Rockclimbing, Siurana

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