2012-12-14 Siurana, Ca L’Onassis   Leave a comment

Toni’s new routes at the far end of the sector are unknown to me, I’ve only climbed in this sector once before, flashing the nice Terra D’Om, 7a a couple of months back.  Unfortunately, the pencil drawing in the guidebook up at the camping isn’t great, added to which there appears to be a few more routes put up since, so we try and choose wisely.  I open a nice looking climb which we believe to be 7a, and as it has the crux concentrated into two bolts of the 6 (18mtrs), it is quite solid.  There’s also plenty of breakages.  I retry for the send but the crux – a semi-sloper diagonal overhanging layback (could it get any worse?!) throws me off a the last move before a jug-pocket.  (Later I see it was Vés Un Rato A Fer El Que Et Roti, 7a+)

New Route, 7a   New Route, 6b+

What I thought was a 6a+ turned out to be more 6b+ though I didn’t read the start well, sent the rest.  Tarragona Climbs has it as Patagucci, 6c/+.  It started spitting with rain, so we finish.

7a+   6c+

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Posted 2012/12/14 by allend66 in Ca L'Onassis, Rockclimbing, Siurana

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