2013-10-15 Matlock, High Tor   Leave a comment

Gary Gibson’s new bolted lines at High Tor’s Right Wing was today’s choice.  My continuing work of trying to convert one hapless trad monkey over to the delights of sport climbing took a boost as new levels were reached.  I open Memories, 6a which was damp, but with the sun just coming onto, it dried out nicely for Mat.  Nice route.  Then I onsight the hard 6b+ Dutch Moon which was concentrated into 5 moves in the middle.  Above it climbing at grade 5 to the anchors.  Nice but pumpy.  Then I flash My Pedigree Chum, 6a+ which was ok, and a very soft touch If Dill Was Here, 6b.

The 6b was a nice onsight for said trad monkey, and bouyed with this success, went on to open Scoobs, 6c a nice well graded 6c, both thin & technical in the crux middle, and thuggy & overhanging at the top.  I miss the flash but work the crux ok.  Very nice.  With Mat having a 2nd go for the send (and first 6c redpoint), I lead the last beauty, Saga Lout, 6c.  Not too much here to worry about, It’s very different to Scoobs, this is all good holds and long moves.  Mat flashes for another highpoint.  Next stop: 6c onsight (if I can get him to stop dragging his knuckles on the ground and leave the bloody cams alone).  To finish the day I simply roll up my rope in its tarp and we’re done – how civilised!

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6a   6b+   6a+   6b   6c   6c

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Posted 2013/10/21 by allend66 in Uncategorized

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