2014-04-10 Wales, Penmaen Head & Castle Inn   Leave a comment

Armed with the 2nd edition of A55 Sports Climbs, we head up to north Wales to new ground.  With plenty on our hitlist, we decide upon a nice crag just by Colwyn Bay.  Penmaen Head looks nice and has quite a few starred routes, so we jump on a few short easy routes t the end of the crag just to see how much we can get done.  Tan Y Lan Kids, 5, Big Up The Lizard, 5+ & Richard II 1399, 6a+ all share the same anchor so we do the three, though it wasn’t a bad idea – even the 5 was a little smooth dusty and felt hard.  So with a measure of the new rock, I get on the fabulous looking Blitzy’s Jug, 6a+ (2 stars) and enjoy every moment.

Blitzy's Jug, 6a+   Flaschenburste Crack, 6a+

Next to it is the 2-star Flowstone Shuffle, 6b+ but it suffers with seepage and some key holds are wet.  What should have been a tough pumpy onsight (slightly overhanging all the way) had me dangling trying to climb around slimy dripping tufas.  Nice route, I’ll come back to it when it’s dry.

Another 2 nice lines with one anchor, Double Helix, 6a+ and Go With The Flow, 6a are very worthwhile and then we move up to a striking looking line Flaschenburste Crack, 6a+ which was excellent.  With the car on a 4hr parking limit, we pack up for Castle Inn crags, closer to the camping.

Old but good routes at the main wall make this end to the day very pleasing. Route 2, 6a & School Mam, 6a were a little polished and we tick Green Fingers, 6b and Route 1, 5.  A full day – great stuff.

2014-04-10 30 Main Wall   School Mam, 6a

5   5+   6a+   6a+   6b+   6a+   6a   6a+   6a   6a   6b   5

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Posted 2014/04/18 by allend66 in Castle Inn, Penmaen Head, Rockclimbing

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