2014-04-11 Castle Inn & Penmaen Head   Leave a comment

With the sun on it, we are back at Castle Inn.  We do two unknown routes, around 5+/6a to the right of the main wall.  But then we go over to the excellent Fine View Wall on the left.  The rock is simply the best, incredible grip, solid and with nice moves too.  Indian Summer, 6a+ & As You Like It, 6b+ both have 2 stars and they are well worth seeking out.

As You Like It, 6b+

From here, we go back to Penmaen Head where I had spied a Spanish-looking 7a.  So after a quick re-warm up on Snowdrop, 6a+ (nice!) I’m onto Clogau Gold, 7a.  There’s a nice shake out at the 4th bolt just before the crux.  Which had me stumped.  It looked like I had to traverse right before going up too high, as the holds run out.  I also spotted a couple of chalked slopers, but with three people, now is not really the time to be working a route.  I top out and strip it taking note for next time.  The sun has gone in and the wind’s picked up now.  Off-Route does a few 6as on the same wall, Railway Buttress then we go up to Expressway Wall where there are some quality climbs. The Quarrywoman, 6b+ deserving all 3 of its stars then we do Ryan’s Route, 6a+ – the sort of climbing that I could just lose myself in all day long.  Beautiful.

Clogau Gold, 7a

A quick 6a, Aphelion as the light fades and we finish tired and satisfied.

2014-04-11 233 Colwyn Bay

6a   6a   6a+   6b+   6a+   7a   6b+   6a+   6a

Posted 2014/04/19 by allend66 in Castle Inn, Penmaen Head, Rockclimbing

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