2014-04-12 Wales, Dyserth   Leave a comment

Looking for a crag on the way home, we find Dyserth has a few offerings.  We decide on Ty Newedd, but after getting lost on the approach and checking for better directions online, we discover the BMC has restricted access.

So we end up at Waterfall Crag.  We find it easily enough and we get to work.  As the grades are easy and the lines short, we just keep going till we run out of draws then change.  From left we tick Suleiman The Insignificant, Diamonds And Pearls, & Custard Corner, all 5 then continuing right: a very nice 6b, Windsor Wall, Magnificent Rita, 5, North Wales Guidebook Wars, 5+, Men Of Dinorwic Slate, 5, a pleasing Rhubarb Wall, 6a+ and here we see some new bolts.  It looks fierce though, so we cruise round to the very last line, a short 6a, Ffyddion Groove.

Rhubarb Wall, 6a+

Now we head over to Dyserth Castle Slab where we saw a 2-star 6b+ plus easier quality lines.  Easy to find, this old quarry was very rampy and slabby, so a good change up in style.  Purple Ladies Versus Godzilla, 6a+ was easy enough and a pleasing introduction, and again with new routes put in since the guidebook was published, it took some working out which was the 6b+.  But we find Genesis and it was lovely.  Thin but nothing strenuous.  Llewelyn ap Gruffydd to Neil Crud, 6a+ was nice and we finish on Tegengle, 6a with spots of rain just as I’m rethreading the anchors.

The Purple Ladies Versus Godzilla, 6a+

5   5   5   6b   5   5+   5   6a+   6a   6a+   6b+   6a+   6a

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Posted 2014/04/19 by allend66 in Dyserth, Rockclimbing

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