2014-04-16 Slaley Brook, Monster Walls   2 comments

Today felt like the right day to tackle the brutish 45mtr 2-star 7a, Too Monstrosity over at Slaley Brook.  Using Gary Gibson’s topo online which is newer than the guidebook, we warm up on the excellent 6c, Orange Alert.  Not sent – though not difficult, we were amazed at how dusty and muddy it was.  It would have been nicer if someone had cleaned it first.  Photo-Bomb’s crap beta at the start meant I lost the flash, but the climbing was a joy.

Orange Alert, 6c   Too Monstrosity, 7a

So I gear up (20 draws, my harness is sagging) and I start up Too Monstrosity.  Nice climbing though again dusty, I come to a bit of a move at around 15mtrs.  I go up right taking a block which feels really sharp, but I dismiss the thought that maybe nobody else has ever been this way (no chalk, no rubber, very sharp hand holds) and contemplate the next long move to a jug to clip the next.  With the next moves in my mind I look back to where I am perched and just as I finish thinking that I appear to be on a fairly free-standing block, the beast (circled below) breaks free.

Monster Walls copy

As soon as I heard the sound of it breaking free, and feel it start to move, I’m falling left away from it looking down to check my flight-path.  I call a warning (“Shit!”) to Photo-Bomb, but he’s already moving in a semi-circle arc away from the impact zone.  I then, still falling, focus back on the projectile, which seems to take an age to topple, as large dense objects tend to.  It touches the rock face, bounces a little out and falls to the ground with a substantial thwock, all in all taking about 5 seconds to come fully to rest.  Shooting off small chunks of rock here and there, but generally staying whole, and mercifully about 2 mtrs away from our rope tarp.  I stop falling 3 clips down.


Dislodged Block

We both whoop with the adrenaline of it, thinking about what had just happened.  After a beat, I call down to Mat, now prone on the ground amongst rocks and brambles, “Well… that’s the onsight blown!” and we laugh.


I continue climbing, actually doing the move just to the left of where the block used to be, and it wasn’t that difficult either.  I climb, clip, climb some more and I arrive at the intermediate lower-off at around 20mtrs.  I consider the rest of the route, clip the bolt adjacent to the abseil station, and the next one up but come to a dirty patch of stones and boulders stuck together with hard baked clay.  Not much liking the look of it, I down-climb the the ab-station, rethread and strip the route.  Nice but potentially lethal.

Still buoyant, we head over to Marble Wall and tick the superb The Calc Spur, 6c

6c   7a   6c


Posted 2014/04/20 by allend66 in Peak District, Rockclimbing, Slaley Brook

2 responses to “2014-04-16 Slaley Brook, Monster Walls

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  1. Animal !!!!!!!!!!! Estas demasiado fuerte.
    Trata la roca con cariño

    rocabrun team

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