2014-06-02 Siurana, Totxo Aigor, Massets Esquerra   Leave a comment

Aigor & Frankenstein, the newish crags you see on the side of the road on the approach to L’Aparador look uninspiring, but they’re north facing and today is very hot. El Segurata Assasi, 6a was an interesting warm up, plenty of pockets but overhanging.  The next climb Guspira de Bufafor, 6a+ is reminiscent of the rock in Reserva India, Siurana’s worst sector in my opinion.  Very smooth, dusty and not so nice.  I abandoned the horrible 6b next to it, and the 6c+, Mala Madre had all the difficulty concentrated in 2 moves.  From Aigor round to Frankenstein and we do the painfully sharp 6b, Franziskaner before Cristian has to go to work.

So after a quick brewski in Cornu, I’m back up to Grau Dels Massets Esquerra to meet Chema for our Fridolin project.  This mighty 7b has not been tried since Chema, Oscar and I got on it in early May.  As I’m tired from the morning climbing and doubtful I’ll send it, I volunteer to be route fluffer.  I also had to remember some of the moves on it as well. 

So with draws and a few vital tickmarks in place, Chema almost sends, falling on the last move in the crux.  For my second attempt, I can’t even make the second rest before I’m off – too tired.  Chema’s 2nd attempt, though a little sketchy, (check out the quality fannying-about at 8’58” on this video) is a good send and his first Siuranenc 7b.

An excellent day.

6a   6a+   6c+   6b   7b   7b


Posted 2014/06/16 by allend66 in Grau Dels Masets, Rockclimbing, Siurana

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