2014-09-28 Stoney Middleton   Leave a comment

New route setting on Garage Buttress at Stoney, and Gary cleans off, mostly, a new 6b+, Turf ‘Em Off.  It’s located just next to Rip ‘Em Off & Chew ‘Em Off.  I claim the second ascent, but 2nd ascents don’t get your name in any guidebooks…  It should clean up pretty nice though.

Turf 'Em Off, 6b+   Turf 'Em Off, 6b+ 

I repeat Creamsnatcher, 6b+ and do the long & excellent Dreamsnatcher, 6c and the very worthwhile Four Thousand, 6c, but with the sun on our backs, it’s very warm, so we decide to go over the road to Goddard’s Quarry.  In the shade, this dusty corner has seven climbs (from left: 6a+, 7a+, 6b+, 6a+, 7a, 6b, 6a). 

I climb past the crux on Red Mist, 7a and manage to fluff the onsight above it on relatively steady climbing.  Nice climb, butch and a bit dusty, but nice.  I try it again after maybe too long a pause but mess up what should have been a textbook send.  Cool down climb on Pleasant Wall, 6a+.

6b+   6c   6b+   6c   7a   7a   6a+

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