2015-04-19 Wales, Dinbren   Leave a comment

I was a little sceptical about going to Dinbren (Clwyd Limestone) as there isn’t much to warm up on, but it is always nice to try a new crag.  Most of it has been retro bolted since the guidebook came out 10 years ago.  We get started on the easiest, Resist And Exist, 6b & Where’s The President’s Brain, 6b+.  The rock though is a little hard to read, there’s lots of hidden side pulls and under clings, and it is quite pumpy.  The next easiest is the nice (& pumpy) Cold Turkey, 6c

The brilliant start sequence of Old Hari Kiri, 6c+ is unfortunately pretty much all the route has to offer.  Above this is easy (6a+?), though enjoyable climbing.  After working out the bouldery and perplexing start moves, (good beta, Anthony!) I second try it to get the worthwhile send.

Old Hari Kiri, 6c+

The lovely looking Traction Trauma, E4 6a – now given 7a on both UKC and Rockfax is next.  Unfortunately, I miss an easy onsight.  Having hung on a pumpy 6b+, a pumpy 6c, and a pumpy 6c+, I wasn’t in the mood for a fight, and this 7a had obviously recently been worked as it was chalked up like an old school blackboard, with red herrings a plenty.  I clean the crap off the route and top out over bold exposure a little miffed at missing another addition to my 7a onsight ticklist.  Except it isn’t 7a.  Anthony flashes it and agrees.  I second go it and easily redpoint, even doing it another way to my original go.  It’s 6c+.  When I come back here, I’ll warm up on this fine line as it isn’t as pumpy as the easier routes.

Traction Trauma, 7a

Next up Anthony is dipping his toe in Walking With Barrence, 7b/+ and I try it out.  Nice and solidly hard, though it looks like the problems are only on the lower half.  We need to get back on this though when we are fresher.  I finish the day on a little polished Trailer Trash, 6b.

 

6b   6b+   6c   6c+   6c+   6c+   6c+   7b/+   6b

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Posted 2015/04/23 by allend66 in Dinbren, Rockclimbing

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