2015-04-26 Wales, Tremadog   Leave a comment

Fully recovered from the horizontal rain that lashed us atop Crib Goch yesterday (though not so recovered from the hangover), we were ready for today, and beautiful it was too.  An early start up to Vector Buttress in Tremadog (Craig Bwlch y Moch) for the top 50 classic One Step In The Clouds, VS 4c.  Pitch 1, 27mtrs, 4b was a gentle plod up to the flake belay via an interesting hand jam crack.  From there I run pitch 2&3 together (27mtrs, 4c & 15mtrs, 4b) to make a nice long, sometimes run out wander up the left hand slab and finishing up the right hand crack/flake.  I thought the hand jam on pitch 1 was more in your face than the crux on pitch 2, for me it was because the hand jam was more vertical, throwing you off balance slightly, and the protection for pitch 2 was right there on good holds before you commit to the slab.  An excellent and always popular route.

One Step In The Clouds, VS 4c   Pitch 1 Belay Vista

We head up to Tremadog’s Upper Tier (Craig Pant Ifan).  Unfortunately a little crowded, but we manage to get in the brilliant Quatre Fois Direct, VS 4c which would get a 3rd star if it was twice as long.  Excellent gritstone-feeling rock the line had great protection with great holds and moves.  Lovely, but over too quickly.  Lots more quality routes in this sector to try though, so a return visit will be soon in coming.  Recommended.

Quatre Fois Direct, VS 4c   Quatre Fois Direct, VS 4c

VS 4b,4c,4b  VS 4c


Posted 2015/05/01 by allend66 in Rockclimbing, Tremadog

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