2015-05-04 Wales, Dinbren   Leave a comment

Dinbren has some interesting routes.  The vast majority of routes though are quite pumpy and the rock is generally difficult to read.  I try The Orgasmatron, 7a but check this for a route description in Rockfax Clwyd Limestone:  “Using a bolt for aid gain the undercut flake…”.  Ok, without aid it weighs in at a bouldery 8a – that explains it.  Above this is powerful climbing, though I didn’t enjoy it much.  It has a star in the guide, but it isn’t the best warmer in the world.

Over to Paul’s project Quick Flash, 7a where I have to settle for a redpoint, but it only has a couple of 7a moves.  Worthwhile though.

Com-Dem-Nation, 6c is a nice route with a fairly powerful lower half, but it has all you need.  It’s a shame these routes are so short.  I repeat Traction Trauma, 7a (that’s actually a 6c+) which is a very nice line, and I’d like to get on the lines that split from the shared start.  But it gets too cold to start working routes.  So I repeat Con-Dem for the clean send. 

Here’s Marc on Trauma just as the route gets thin…

Traction Trauma, 7a

7a   7a   7a   6c   7a   6c

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Posted 2015/05/05 by allend66 in Dinbren, Rockclimbing

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