2015-05-21 Siurana, Can Piqui Pugui   Leave a comment

Siurana is such a wonderful place to climb, with so many nice routes, so much beauty, it just had to have something ‘negative’ about it.  And that negative is having very little shade protection from the sun.  Depending when you climb, obviously, will determine what sector you want to be at if you want to avoid the sun.  And the sun is getting strong.  We warm up on Gatzarra, 6c (which is showing a bit more polish than the last time I was here) in sector L’Aparador, as the last of the midday shade gets taken by invading sunlight. 

We descend to Can Piqui Pugui which enjoys shade from early afternoon.  We wanted to get back on the once tried Gurungos, 7b but there’s a wasps’ nest half way up the route.  Shame, as I remember this as being a brilliant line.

Near it to the left, I open the nice Decidit En Petit Comitee, 7a+.  It takes the large flake and traverses left a little. 

I had also invested some time on Cruela De Vil, 7b a while back, but with the moves worked out ultimately failed to send it, but it is nice enough to redpoint, however it’s occupied just now so we try the line to the left, Harry El Brut, 7b.  It feels exposed at the start, and there’s a strenuous roof to boulder your way over.  Once over that, there’s another crux move below the anchors, but we get the beta worked out for next time.  A nice climb.

6c   7a+   7b

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