2015-05-23 England, Portland, Blacknor South   1 comment

Portland – paradise.  I climbed in this brilliant area for the first time last year and have marked it as one to repeatedly come back to.  There’s half a lifetime’s worth of climbing to be done here.  It’s immense.  After the usual delays on the M5 and pitching tents, we rock up to Blacknor South with enough time to get 6 good routes done, in blazing sunshine.

Blacknor South

We warm up on a dusty section of rock that doesn’t really detract from the quality of the climb.  The rock here is super grippy and sharp, maximum adhesion.  Master Bates, 6a+ and Roger The Cabin Boy, 6b+ are nice warmers, the first being dusty, the second not.  Moving on to Bum Droplets, 6b+ was very nice with a tough flowstone top-out.  With these done we move up to a nice 7a, Cute Ass that I mess up and try to repeat for the send, but only Anthony bags it.  All the routes climbed today are worth doing, and they are not too far from the top of the crag, so easy approach and good quality means there are always climbers here.

After lunch, Anthony opens the very wonderful Last Rose of Summer, 7a but fails to both read it correctly and onsight.  I take advantage of the beta though and score my first flash of the trip.  It’s long – 28mtrs, and it’s a proper 7a with some hard moves three quarters the way up where a rusty bolt protrudes.  I can’t get over the rock’s adhesion.  I could wear my worst rock shoes and still climb 7b here.  Wonderful!  Lots still to be done in this west-facing sector, but next time we’ll hit it in the morning in shade as the sun is too strong.

2015-05-23 11 Blacknor South

6a+   6b+   6b+   7a   7a   7a


Posted 2015/06/02 by allend66 in Portland, Rockclimbing

One response to “2015-05-23 England, Portland, Blacknor South

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  1. Love the climbing in Portland! Beautiful long climbs in such a perfect setting!

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