2015-05-25 Portland, Blacknor South   Leave a comment

Anthony opens the nice Driven Like The Snow, 6b+ but I think he goes too far left and actually finishes up the end of the next line over.  Our Climbers’ Club guidebook isn’t the best in the world, and the line does veer left slightly, as do other lines – not very clear.  As this was just a warm up, I don’t mind that I pinged off a greasy hold at the 2nd bolt.  Then onto Sacred Angel, 7a scoring the flash.  A very nice line and worth finding.

Driven Like The Snow, 6b+   Sacred Angel, 7a

Feeling strong from his onsight, la macchina struggles on a 7b+.  It doesn’t look great, and besides, I have something else in mind: The three star Portland Heights, 7a, again hard to identify as there are new added bolts and unclear pictures. 

Of all the 7a I have so far climbed, this was the ‘grandest’.  It feels big – only 27mtrs, but feels larger than the 35mtr behemoths in Siurana, yet you only need carry 9 draws with you.  Magnificent pocket pulling in the early section, with some ledges, but all good, gently overhanging and all the time adding to the pump in your forearms.  From the midpoint it gets a little more complex.  The lower section was fairly obvious but the rock becomes harder to read, and harder to move on.  The friction though is outstanding, and your feet always feel 100% sure.  I would have been so happy to nail this as an onsight, but there’s some proper hard 7a moves on it, and I need to work the crux sequence a few times.  You are left with a feeling of expose and, frankly, insignificance.  This feels like a line that will chew you up and spit you out.  I look forward to owning it next trip.

Humbled, we move on to onsight & flash the nice and sustained Babelicious Redhead, 6c+ in our guide, and given 6c online.  I personally would give it the ‘+’ though.  Then tragically denied another 7a onsight, Anthony falls on the nice Pining For Glossop.  But that doesn’t stop me climbing past the crux, reaching the anchors and looking down at my belayer with a shit-eating grin, only to brain fart before clipping the chain and lose the flash.  Rats.  I’ll send this next time too. 

The super sharp rock has destroyed Anthony’s skin, but not wanting to finish on a fall, I just cool down on the nice 2-star Toe The Line, 6b+

A brilliant sector, a brilliant day.

6b+   7a   7a  6c+   7a   6b+


Posted 2015/06/08 by allend66 in Blacknor South, Portland, Rockclimbing

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