2015-07-03 England, Stanage   Leave a comment

What better than, in the middle of a heat wave, to go climb on some nice, soapy-feeling grit? 

As it happened we were fairly lucky with the breeze-to-midge ratio, but chalking up didn’t seem to do much.  It just sweated right off.  We warm up on the top-50 classic The Link, E1 5b which was a lot easier than I remember it.  It was still in shade too which helped.  Next we do the fairly brutal, and aptly named Desperation, graded at E1 5c in the book, and commonly given 6a online, which would scan – it was a lot harder than the E1 6a I nailed in Tremadog’s Upper Tier last week.

Desperation, E1 6a

Browsing Alex’s hitlist, we schlep up to Tower Face Direct, E2 5b and a bold-feeling onsight and flash with a large creaking flake that you just prayed would hold the cam should a fall ensue.  With the crux just above this, in the middle of the wall, the upper flake was a romp.  A good route.

Only three routes done, but grit tires you a lot.  We have a look at The Tippler Direct, E3 6a but feel The Tippler, E1 5b seems more realistic considering the heat and our levels of energy.  I start up the E1 5b with roof traverse, and suddenly feeling very tired, down-climb it from the crux removing three cams.  We’re done for today, and hit the pub.

E1 5b   E1 6a   E2 5b

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Posted 2015/07/05 by allend66 in Peak District, Rockclimbing, Stanage

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