2015-10-19 Greece, Kalymnos, Arhi & Arginonta   Leave a comment

Well, it’s a dirty job but someone’s got to do it.  Kalymnos – Rock climbing paradise known the world over – was long overdue for a reconnoiter by Team Oracle, so we selflessly packed our bags and left behind the rain and cold to arrive to a very pleasant 27 degrees at the end of this year’s climbing season.  In fact it was too hot most days, as we had to retreat down to the beach for a dip and wait for the midday heat to diminish.

This year sees the release of the sixth edition of the Kalymnos Guide book.  Now, we had heard that Kaly has a bit of a reputation for soft touch ‘holiday grading’.  Let’s hope this is not true.

Day 1: Under excellent guidance from a vet, we hit Arhi’s Main Right sector for some easy plodding, just to get a feel for the rock.  First impression: The grading seems to be all over the place, some routes easy, some graded spot on, some routes hard for the grade.  Aristos, 5b (overgraded), Pinipon, 4c & Caronte, 4c+ (seemed right), all 3 done in my approach shoes with no noticeable difference in difficulty between the 3.  Maybe there’s a typo in the guidebook, say for example like the error on page 79, where lines 41/42 don’t match up with the photo?  OK, not very scientific climbing in approach shoes, so I don my trusty old Evolvs and do Arhaggelos, 5a then Carlo Non Farlo, 5b and a one move wonder 6a, Alba.  Hmmm, lemon squeezy.  I do the excellent Orione, 6a which is a 6a, polished, but a 6a… even if it is over bolted (13 in 25mtrs).  Now the sun is fierce and full on our backs, so we retreat to the sea and some lunch.

Orione, 6a

We hog up to Arginonta’s Infra Red Wall which looks great.  Orange limestone with lots of features.  Borhok, 6b worthy of 3 stars, Wild Sex, 6b (certainly a 3-starrer), Kosmas, 6b (no noticeable drop in quality), and a cool down 6a+, Free Style all leave me wanting more and in awe.  These brilliant 4 routes are just to the right of Pornokini, a polished 6a shown in the photo below, with an unknown climber just reaching the anchors:

Pornokini, 6a

I have formulated some opinions, but 1 day and 2 sectors is not conclusive – keep reading for more posts.  I am however going to like this trip….

5b   4c   4c+   5a   5b   6a   6a   6b   6b   6b   6a+


Posted 2015/10/29 by allend66 in Arginonta, Arhi, Kalymnos, Rockclimbing

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