2015-10-20 Kalymnos, Kastri & Arginonta   Leave a comment

The Main Wall at Kastri is this morning’s venue.  The rock here is mixed:  it is sometimes needle-sharp, sometimes smooth and rounded, sometimes clean sometimes dirty.  It all depends upon the routes you climb, as some of them have clearly seen a lot of traffic (and are more polished / less sharp), but other routes here are newer and need traffic up them to both clean the crap off them and smooth them off a little.

2015-10-20 01 Kastri Main Wall

Wasp, 5b was dirty and average.  But Fata, 6a was worth getting shoed up for.  Great climbing that gets steep at the end. Haramiss, 6a+ was different – 15mtrs of crappy slab, then 15mtrs of lovely technical sharp vertical rock.  Worth doing.  Principessa Giulia, 6c+ was pumpy and very nice.  Pocket pulling up steep rock.  The guide says ‘well spaced pockets and slopers’ which is right – if you find a sloper just move up to the next hole and it will be a juggy pocket… great stuff!

I had my eyes on the musical note 7a+ (more than 3 stars) to the right but it looks pumpy and time is running out – the sun has arrived and it is hot again.  Next to Giulia on the other side though is a 3* 6b+, Enchanted Castle which is like Giulia but easier.  It is very nice and worth doing – just make sure you move fast through the cave which is obviously the goat latrine.  Being sheltered from rain means the stench of caprine piss doesn’t get washed away, or even diluted.

Oh, and just make sure you keep an eye on your rope length, we saw some classic schoolboy errors here today.

Cap Arvithis, 6b

The afternoon session was back at Infra Red Wall on Pornokini, 6a (polished) and Cap Arvithis, 6b.  I haven’t found a bad climb in this sector yet.

5b   6a   6a+   6c+   6b+   6a   6b

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Posted 2015/10/31 by allend66 in Arginonta, Kalymnos, Kastri, Rockclimbing

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