2015-10-22 Kalymnos, Ghost Kitchen   Leave a comment

One of the longer approaches to this magnificent crag, but that doesn’t put people off.  Ghost Kitchen is popular because frankly the routes are amazing.  We only scratched the surface (only 7 routes done) but the climbing has been brilliant.

We start off with a polished Joy In The Garden, 6a+ which has obviously seen lots of traffic.  The growing amount of polish present on this line makes the climbing harder, and it is already pumpy, but it’s a good warmer, and it doesn’t reach 6b in difficulty.  Next I get sandbagged on Pirates Of Kalymnos, 6b+.  Undergraded, the rock is very sharp in places.  A fairly nice route, but it’s a 6c.  Unfortunately though, the wind is picking up a little, and some junior editorial staff is on the first route of the crag on the left hand side – Hour Of Ghosts, 6a.  The wind is now whipping down the valley to the left and makes both climbing and communication difficult.  So we strip this uninspiring and mediocre route and move on to better things.  Taverna Psirri, 6b was a gem and worth all 3 stars that the guidebook seems to liberally distribute.  The grade was also spot on.  Now moving onto arguably THE route of the crag, Resista, 6c:

Resista, 6c

I couldn’t leave without getting on it, they said.  I was not too keen, as there were about 10 people milling around underneath it, and with so much rock around it didn’t make a lot of sense to to me waste time by queueing for one specific line. 

Now, I’m not going to mention any nationalities here, but there seems to be a very ugly trend of people rocking up to a crag, and selfishly hogging several routes.  They monopolise the rock, not letting outsiders onto their projects.  One ignorant group of people didn’t even acknowledge our presence as we put our rope tarp down in line waiting for them to finish.  To illustrate this, we witnessed one group of douchbags talking among themselves in their own (non-English) language, obviously unaware that they could be understood.  They were quite disrespectful, without reason.  They were talking about ‘‘letting them onto the line, or let them go fuck themselves and wait till (they) had finished working the shit out of the route – all of them” (and there were some inept climbers too, so working the route would be a slow process).  The English speaking subjects of their dissing then turned round to them and calmly told them in their own language that they had understood everything that they had said, and were they going to be long, please?  This magically freed up the line for them and us though the price for it was a shitty vibe floating around, that was thankfully short lived. 

So the climb: Resista, 6c (and an easy 6c: If you’re a 6b+ climber, go for the onsight!).  Simply a must-tick for anybody that likes quality.  It’s a committing line, with some big movements and it feels exposed, but this also adds to the experience.  It is only slightly pumpy, and the crux is so short – blink and you miss it (but you’ll know it when you see it).  It isn’t hard to read – the amount of people that climb this classic means it is well chalked.  I’m glad I stopped to do it now.  Very recommended!  As is the line to the right, Globus, 6c+.  I might even give this a 7a grade.  It’s thin and technical in the middle and pumpy up top with the pockets.

I’m forced to cool down on just one more climb, a 6b as the lightweights I came with are tired and want to go to the beach.  So I agree to check Baldwin that has been downgraded from 6b+.  A nice climb, but it’s correct at 6b.  It’s sustained, with lots of 6b moves after 6b moves, but the difficulty never gets to 6b+, sorry kiddo.  Ghost Kitchen – awesome.

6a+   6b+   6a   6b   6c   6c+   6b

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Posted 2015/11/03 by allend66 in Ghost Kitchen, Kalymnos, Palace, Rockclimbing

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