2015-10-24 Kalymnos, Prophitis Andreas   Leave a comment

Yesterday was a rest day (raining) so today we’re full of beans to get back on the rock.  I had spotted a musical note 7a (4*) that was also a decent length – 30mtrs, so I was eager to get on that.  The long hog over to Prophitis Andreas was scary – the previous day’s near continuous rain had washed all sorts of debris onto the road.  Once there we had a long walk in where we were met by a substantial wind.  The temperature was noticeably down – it is of course coming to the end of the season.  The sun came round though after only an hour or so, so it felt warmer, though the wind persisted all day.

We warm up on Thavmasia, 5c which was mediocre.  Given 1 star in the guide book, but we couldn’t find it.  The rock was sharp.  Annoyingly, considering there is so much rock around, the original routesetter felt it necessary to bolt the line only about half a meter away from the line to the right.  To emphasise this, about halfway up the wall the route name and a direction arrow was painted on the rock so you didn’t accidentally cross over onto the next route.  Very poor.

Said too-close line to the right, The Lords, 6a+ wasn’t bad, but I don’t think I’d give it 3 stars.  Again with an arrow and name painted half way up.  Next I do Tyche, 6a+ which was fairly lovely, the difficulty being in the first 7mtrs.  Just as I was about to get on my targetted 7a, Prophet Andreas some climbers get on and thoughtfully chalk it up for me.  So while I wait, I get on Philotimia, 6b was a short but nice route – only 25mtrs.

Prophet, 7a was lovely, but maybe a bit easy.  I’d give it 6c+.  It was fractionally easier than Globus, 6c+ over in Ghost Kitchen.  But it has some great thin crimps and technical moves on it though – recommended.

Prophet Andreas, 7a

I do Cima Piccola after this which was a nice and quite sustained 6a and I finish the day with a tough and very sharp 6b+, L’Armee Du Prophet Extension which was nowhere near the 37mtrs stated in the guide.  Nor was Cima.  A good sector.

5c  6a+   6a+   6b   7a   6a   6b+

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Posted 2015/11/04 by allend66 in Kalymnos, Prophitis Andreas, Rockclimbing

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