2016-05-09 Asturias, Quirós   Leave a comment

Somewhere new.  I love trying new crags and areas, and we were tempted by the RocaVerde guide (the 2nd edition was released May 2016 about a month after we bought the first edition).  We stayed at the Refugio De Llano, a very nice and clean refuge, run by a top bloke.  José recommended a few sectors for us as there is lots and lots to have a go at, at what we were told is the oldest developed sport crag in Asturias.

2016-05-09 09 Quiros

So we rock up to Ventolín sector, a small section of rock on the end of a big wall.  We start on the trad-style Ventolín, 5+ which was hard.  Nice rock (limestone) and considering the age of the routes, not at all polished.  In fact, the rock was sharp, and for casual climbers could be problematic.  Then we get on the nice Escaramujo, 6a+ which was nice.  And hard.  Pumpy pocket pulling, and this route showing a little polish, though not much.  The next route was Andrómeda, 6b+ (hard) and with this nice route bagged, we finish at this beginner’s sector and go down to the left hand side of the same wall, sector Llano where Jim and Richard were climbing.

Llano sector has some easier multi-pitch routes, though as we’re on a sport climbing trip to get as much ticked as possible, we stick to first pitches only.  We were asked to test the grade of a couple of routes as they seemed wrong.  Trigo rated as 6a+ seemed way too easy and El Embarque De Noé given 5+ was too difficult.  The first pitch of Trigo, 5+ and Noé, 6a+ were swapped in the book.  We don’t know if this mistake was corrected for the 2nd edition, and unfortunately we found several guidebook errors during our week-long climbing trip.

With the climbing too easy here, we went up to the next sector, La Amarilla.  There’s a nice looking line in the middle of the wall and I get on it.  Fraguel Rock, 6b+ was a treat, only slightly spoilt by the anchors being on a guano-encrusted stance.  Nice and technical with excellent adhesion.  The line next to it shares the same anchor, Diedre Margolles, 6a+ was also worth seeking out.

Fraguel Rock, 6b+

With patchy rain, and time getting on, we rock over to Escalón sector just for a quick tick of the slabby and technical Gay Machine, 6b.  A nice climb.

5+   6a+   6b+  5+   6a+   6b+   6a+   6b


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