2016-06-22 Wales, Gogarth, South Stack   Leave a comment

Castle Helen is the venue at South Stack – a very pleasant introduction to Gogarth: Trad sea-cliff climbing in a truly beautiful area.

2016-06-22 01 South Stack

Mein Host, Mr. Chinner, is a local round these parts, and I cannot fault his guiding skills.  We park up in the free car park – yes, free!,… and descend the path to the lighthouse where we find the 60mtr abseil in to the start ledge for the chosen climbs.  The ab in itself feels big, and is a great prelude to the fun that is waiting for us.  After backing up the in situ gear to an OCD level, we swoop in to a stance around 8 mtrs above the crashing swell.  Very atmospheric.  So the plan was to climb Lighthouse Arete, VS 4c, 4a which goes very much as planned.  Not too hard, and a great route.  The second pitch wasn’t as good as the first, but nevertheless, a very worthwhile climb.

2016-06-22 12 South Stack   Lighthouse Arete, VS 4c

Another ab in and we do Lighthouse Arete Direct / Blanco, HVS 5a, 4a with another flash first pitch, onsight 2nd pitch.  This second half feels a lot more airy and exposed than the other line, though it more or less ends up in the same place towards the topout.  The rock quality is superb – maximum grip and surprisingly unpolished, considering the age of the first ascents, and the popularity of the crag.

Lighthouse Arete Direct / Blanco, HVS 5a

With time for one more line, we chose Pel / Rap, VS 4c, 4b combination line, as the top out to Pel is more or less the same for Blanco, so at the end of pitch 1 we go directly up for the finish for Rap, 4b – very very nice.  Amazing quality, and well recommended.

We top out in golden hour sunshine, with spectacular views from an excellent day climbing.  Gogarth will be on our hitlist again soon…

2016-06-22 24 South Stack

VS 4c, 4a    HVS 5a, 4a    VS 4c, 4b


Posted 2016/07/26 by allend66 in Rockclimbing

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