2016-07-21 Capçanes, Barranc Del Tortó   Leave a comment

Having climbed here once before – I remember trying the rather butch Carrasclet, 7c a while back, it’s no surprise what this great wall has to offer.  The first time around we didn’t have a topo, this time we do.  And Chema, our guide.  You can get approach instructions from this website.  In summer, a morning crag, in winter an afternoon crag.

2016-07-21 10 Capcanes

What was once a tough 6b+ is now a chilled out 6c and that makes the warm up less stressful.  You lower down from the 33mtr Rústica and think “Yeah, let’s smash the next one” instead of thinking “Holy shit, that was hard, I hope I don’t get spat off the next climb”.  And we do just that – smash Chema and Isma’s 7a send Hecatombe.  Congratulations to Isma for his first 7a, Hecatombe is a worthwhile tick.

Rustica, 6b+   Hecatombe, 7a

And so we move on to Mosca Negra, 7b.  A nice climb of around 6c up to the roof break, then a hard move, some thin things then another hard move before the chain.  Annoyingly I miss the onsight by a schoolboy error, but Paco nails his flash.  And so with three routes and 100 vertical metres, the sun is eating away at the shade at the base of the crag, and it’s time to get a brewski.  At 2:30pm in summer, the sun is on the wall and it’s too hot to climb.  A great sector, with decent routes, and one 7b that will shortly be added to my CV.

6c   7a   7b

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Posted 2016/08/08 by allend66 in Uncategorized

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