Archive for November 2016

2016-10-16 Arginonta Valley   Leave a comment

So we thought we’d rinse out most of Arginonta Valley, even though they’re new, they will be trashed very soon indeed.  Mix shade all day, with easy grades and a super short walk in, and you’ve got a recipe for crowds and lots of traffic.  On the Middle Wall, we do Ahtarmas, 5a followed by Hippocrates, 6a and then Patókorfa, 6a+ and Tricky-Tricky Mana Mou, 6b+ – route of the day.

On Left Wall, the ticklist reads: Wanderlust, 6c super pumpy, so we go back to Grigna, 6b then Ravasaki, 6a+ and Damos, 6a+ and finally Bohemian Mermaid Ext., 6c+ to finish.

Bohemian Mermaid Ext, 6c+

You heard it here first – get in there before it becomes a polished nightmare.

5a   6a   6a+   6b+   6c   6b   6a+   6a+   6c+

Posted 2016/11/29 by allend66 in Arginonta, Kalymnos, Rockclimbing

2016-10-15 Arginonta Skyline, Little Verdon   Leave a comment

A looong schlep in, this is a fairly distant crag, both from the accommodation and from the parking.  But it was recommended and we hadn’t tried it before, so we were up for a new experience.  And we were glad we did.  After arriving and resting for 5, we warm up on Lou Lou, 6a+ and Zipfelmutz, 6b.  Ready for a fight, Tom Tom Club, 7a+ looks beefy and we have a play on it but it’s thuggy and pumpy and overhanging – not my style.  It also seems to be on top of a goat latrine, and the ammonia smell is a little distracting.

2016-10-15 15 Little Verdon

We leave this and go back right along the wall to a musical note 7a, Fioca with which I was looking to up my onsight tally by one, but it was a little hard to read.  I put a couple of chalk tick marks and send it 2nd try – a magnificent line.  Route of the day.

Fioca, 7a

Though the sun has now arrived, I continue with Trou Por Trou, 6b to cool down before being out-voted to hit Emporios, for beer, beach and nosebag.

After too long a lunch, we rock up to Arginonta Valley, where my belayer informs me he is on strike after three routes, so I look for 3-star routes in the guide, and surprise, surprise, they are ALL 3 stars!  The guidebook people definitely need an editor.  I do Rhythm Of The Rain, 6a, Thunder Road, 6b, and Rufixius, 6a+.  There isn’t really anything to differentiate between them, they are all pleasant, all dusty, and all showing early signs of polish.  A good day.

6a+   6b   7a+   7a   7a   6b   6a   6b   6a+

Posted 2016/11/28 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2016-10-14 Kalymnos, Gerakios   Leave a comment

First time in this sector, and it doesn’t seem to be too bad.  Not great, not bad.  We start on Open Book, 6a+ though we couldn’t find the ‘plus’.  All very nice and accessible, without too much effort.

Open Book, 6a+

Titis Blues, 6b+ to its left was magnificent, and worth three stars.  Still in shade, Hannah, 6a+ was nice but very sharp.  Grufelo, 6b+ was also sharp but only of reasonable quality.  Flag, 6a was a disappointment, also harrowing on the skin, but things picked up for the nice line Little Gio, 6a+Reader, 6a to finish the day – an ok climb to an above-average morning session.

Titis Blues, 6b+

6a+   6b+   6a+   6b+   6a   6a+   6a

Posted 2016/11/24 by allend66 in Gerakios, Kalymnos, Rockclimbing

2016-10-13 Kalymnos, Arhi & Arginonta Valley   Leave a comment

We sampled Arhi last year, and it is a great sector, so it was no bad thing to return there.  There are plenty of routes to do, slab, vertical, and overhanging.  It starts to loose the shade at around noon, with the sun creeping round to the right of the sector a couple of hours later.

Pares, 6a and Deimos, 6b are two excellent warmups, and we continue with Stanislas, 6a+ before heading over to the right-hand corner where there is an overhanging tufa-fest Kastor, 7a

2016-10-13 19 Arhi Main Right   2016-10-13 13 Arhi Main Right

Easy but still 7a” the book suggests.  There’s only 6 bolts on it and it looks fierce.  So not-my-style, and I bail on it after 3 bolts.  I’m not in shape and don’t fancy trashing any tendons.  I get back on easy stuff – Triaina, 6b+, but the sun and heat have arrived, so it’s time for a dip in the sea, a chill on the beach, lunch, and a regroup to last year’s new sector Arginonta Valley.

2016-10-13 28 Arginonta Valley Right Wall

Already showing early signs of polish, anyone wanting to take advantage of the mostly nice lines here should hurry up and visit it quick before the holds get glassy and smooth.  The fact is most people are lazy, and when you combine the literally 2-minute walk in with shade nearly all day, and wide range of easy grades, you know it’s going to get busy.  L’Engeance, 6a+ was an excellent introduction, we continued with Gastelclou, 6a+, Rock Tragos, 6a, Ad-Hoc, 6b, Le Bleu Du Ciel, 6b+, Bancroche, 6a and Idoine, 6a.  Standout lines are Ad-Hoc and Ciel, both magnificent.  The other lines, while not being bad, are all very samey, and difficult to remember one from the others.

6a   6b   6a+   7a   6b+   6a+   6a+   6a   6b   6b+   6a   6a

Posted 2016/11/09 by allend66 in Arginonta, Arhi, Kalymnos, Rockclimbing

2016-10-12 Greece, Kalymnos, Poets   Leave a comment

That time of year again, some welcome winter sun is needed and so we find ourselves looking out at the Aegean sea on a firm favourite – Kalymnos.  It’s just after the North Face Festival, so the island seems to be a little busier than last year.  Poets is a sector very close to Masouri, so we leave the hogs and walk.  A day of easy stuff, as we haven’t climbed for ages, and it’s a new crag.  So we start things off with the very nice Anacreonta, 6a.  Again, as we discussed in last year’s post, the guide book literally stars every route, so a little viewer discretion is required to counteract the lack of decent guidebook editorial staff.

Next up is Sapfo, 6a+, along with Styx, 6a+ and Dreads, 6b.  All fairly good climbs, with Dreads standing out as being a corker.  There’s thin climbing on that broccoli-type mineral growth rock from seepage from the huge overhanging roof, so it’s sharp on the fingers, but ultra grippy.  The rock shoes are like velcro.

Homeric Verses, 6a+

Homeric Verses, 6a+ and Saxonia, 6a are also nice, and even though the rest of the gang want to bail from the sun, I fit in a quick Damocles, 6a+.  Nice sector, not a bad climb done.

6a   6a+   6a+   6b   6a+   6a   6a+

Posted 2016/11/03 by allend66 in Kalymnos, Poets, Rockclimbing

2016-10-04 Llanymynech, Grid Iron   Leave a comment

Bah Bah Black Sheep, 6b+ and Gaza Stripper, 6b serve as warmers before I try to get past the damn overlap on Pew, 7a+.  A work in progress….

6b+   6b   7a+   7a+

Posted 2016/11/01 by allend66 in Llanymynech, Rockclimbing

2016-09-19 Llanymynech, Grid Iron Wall   Leave a comment

Back to the old favourite, and one of the closer crags to home.  I still have plenty of work to do here, and buoyed by recent crushage on Poison Ivy, 7a+ on the Red Wall, I try and tick the remaining two hard routes left on Grid Iron.

After a quick warm up on Smack The Juggler, 6b+, I’m ready for my project.

Pew, Pew, Barney, McGrew, Cuthbert, Dibble, Grub, 7a+ (hence forth known as Pew) recently had a bit of escape tat hanging off it at what was presumably the crux, just before the overlap.  Sportsclimbs also tells us the crux is pulling through this overlap, so no surprise there.  We get on it.  The lower section is rather scrappy but requires some delicate and careful climbing, and isn’t too offensive.  Sure the rock isn’t super quality, but the movements needed to ascend are rather nice.  Then the pale coloured mid-section jumps up you and there are some stiff moves needed.  I work out a first hard move to reach the pocket (not hard when you know how!) under the roof, then progress is stopped.  I try and traverse over to the right – not a great hold.  I try straight up through a minging sloper – not good.  The good rescue hold is just too far away.  I work it for a while, but am left flummoxed as I strip it for another day.

Pew, Pew, Barney, McGrew, Cuthbert, Dibble, Grub, 7a+

With still some energy left, (though not enough for Pew), I get on Curfew, 6b+ which is always nice, and quickly round off the day with another send of Jack The Smuggler, 6c+ / 7a.

6b+   7a+   7a+  6b+   7a

Posted 2016/11/01 by allend66 in Uncategorized