Archive for July 2017

2017-07-05 Llanymynech, Nomad Wall, Red Wall   Leave a comment

Arriving with sun on all walls, we warm up on the shitty lower section of Nomad Wall – at least giving shade to the belayer.  We only have to wait about an hour for Red Wall to become shady, so we use the time to tick Dentine, 5+, Pull ‘Em Out, 6a+ and Another Filling, 6b+.

2017-07-05 Nomad Wall

With the bird ban restricting climbing from March up to June 30th, we fear that Red Wall will be dusty from lack of traffic.  We get on Long John Codling, 7a but it shuts me down completely at the crux at the 9th bolt.  It is dusty, but the crux is rather beastly for a 7a.  Sweat is dripping of us so we don’t invest any more time on it today.

5+   6a   6b+   7a   7a

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Posted 2017/07/06 by allend66 in Llanymynech, Rockclimbing

2017-07-02 Wales, Llanberis, Idwal Slabs   Leave a comment

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b is today’s delight, and thankfully most of the rock has dried out from yesterday’s drizzle.  It’s a three-star classic, 6-pitch 137mtr route which was an absolute joy.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

Lou starts off pitch 1 (30mtr, 4a) and after a fair amount of faff eventually gets to the belay ledge.  Pitch 2 was short and sweet, 15mtrs with the hardest move getting onto the face after the belay ledge.  Pitch 3: 18mtrs with more pleasant slab climbing on quartz patches.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

Pitch 4 – and this is where things get blurred, should have been 37mtrs according to the guide book, but I climb past the shitty belay ‘ledge’ as my experience tells me I have not even climbed 30mtrs yet, and continue to make the obvious terrace up higher.  But I’m using a 50mtr half rope (thanks to Mr. C) with Lou’s 60mtr half rope (good job we swapped it out at the last minute!).  So when I run out of blue rope I yell down “take me off blue!”.  Just two more mtrs and I make the terrace.  Luckily there were people on the other lines to relay messages between us, as I had joined the 4th and 5th pitch, giving 67mtrs so sayeth the guide book.  With one 50 mtr rope 2 mtrs short, and my 60 mtr rope giving me enough slack to build a multipoint belay, the two pitches weigh in at 53mtrs.  Someone really should edit and correct these damn guidebooks – they charge enough moola for them.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

Last pitch before a 100mtr scramble to the ab station is the crux, 4b but only in 15mtrs.  Lou steps up admirably.  An excellent adventure, taking 6 hours.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

HS 4b

Posted 2017/07/04 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2017-07-01 Wales, Trevor, Compact Wall   Leave a comment

We were here around 4 weeks ago to mop up some star routes, but because we weren’t concentrating whilst reading the guide book, we omitted the top-50 star route of Traction Control, 6c.  So even though this were to be a trad weekend, slight moisture in Llanberis meant we rocked up to tick this line and see if Lou can finally get her 6a+.

The Great Escape, 6a+

We warm up on The Great Escape, 6a+ leaving the draws for Lou for a possible redpoint attempt.  Not bad, a little technical, not gifting you much with the grade, but neither is it a 6b, so all good.  Emma opens the nice Snakes In The Grass, 6b just up the road a little, and once I’ve stripped it, I get on Traction Control, 6c.  It looks like there’s been a few breakages low down – some orangey coloured rock where all else is grey, and it feels very bouldery and hard.  It probably was a 6c when it was put up, but now feels more like 6c++.

Traction Control, 6c

With problems just getting both feet off the ground, my onsight is quickly ruined, and I try a few different starts.  Difficult to read, technical, bouldery, it is a lovely line, with the difficulties at the first and upto the 2nd clip.  Make the second clip and you should be golden.  My beta wasn’t good for Emma though, so she’ll have to work it out for herself.  Lou meanwhile is toproping Escape several times, no doubt memorising every millimetre of it.

With Traction ticked, I move onto Hornier Toad, 6b which is pleasant and ultimately put the bolts for Lou on her nearly 6b, Crime Scene on Suspect Wall.  A good day.

6a+   6b   6c   6b   6b

Posted 2017/07/03 by allend66 in Rockclimbing, Trevor