2017-07-01 Wales, Trevor, Compact Wall   Leave a comment

We were here around 4 weeks ago to mop up some star routes, but because we weren’t concentrating whilst reading the guide book, we omitted the top-50 star route of Traction Control, 6c.  So even though this were to be a trad weekend, slight moisture in Llanberis meant we rocked up to tick this line and see if Lou can finally get her 6a+.

The Great Escape, 6a+

We warm up on The Great Escape, 6a+ leaving the draws for Lou for a possible redpoint attempt.  Not bad, a little technical, not gifting you much with the grade, but neither is it a 6b, so all good.  Emma opens the nice Snakes In The Grass, 6b just up the road a little, and once I’ve stripped it, I get on Traction Control, 6c.  It looks like there’s been a few breakages low down – some orangey coloured rock where all else is grey, and it feels very bouldery and hard.  It probably was a 6c when it was put up, but now feels more like 6c++.

Traction Control, 6c

With problems just getting both feet off the ground, my onsight is quickly ruined, and I try a few different starts.  Difficult to read, technical, bouldery, it is a lovely line, with the difficulties at the first and upto the 2nd clip.  Make the second clip and you should be golden.  My beta wasn’t good for Emma though, so she’ll have to work it out for herself.  Lou meanwhile is toproping Escape several times, no doubt memorising every millimetre of it.

With Traction ticked, I move onto Hornier Toad, 6b which is pleasant and ultimately put the bolts for Lou on her nearly 6b, Crime Scene on Suspect Wall.  A good day.

6a+   6b   6c   6b   6b

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Posted 2017/07/03 by allend66 in Rockclimbing, Trevor

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