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2017-07-05 Llanymynech, Nomad Wall, Red Wall   Leave a comment

Arriving with sun on all walls, we warm up on the shitty lower section of Nomad Wall – at least giving shade to the belayer.  We only have to wait about an hour for Red Wall to become shady, so we use the time to tick Dentine, 5+, Pull ‘Em Out, 6a+ and Another Filling, 6b+.

2017-07-05 Nomad Wall

With the bird ban restricting climbing from March up to June 30th, we fear that Red Wall will be dusty from lack of traffic.  We get on Long John Codling, 7a but it shuts me down completely at the crux at the 9th bolt.  It is dusty, but the crux is rather beastly for a 7a.  Sweat is dripping of us so we don’t invest any more time on it today.

5+   6a   6b+   7a   7a

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Posted 2017/07/06 by allend66 in Llanymynech, Rockclimbing

2017-07-02 Wales, Llanberis, Idwal Slabs   Leave a comment

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b is today’s delight, and thankfully most of the rock has dried out from yesterday’s drizzle.  It’s a three-star classic, 6-pitch 137mtr route which was an absolute joy.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

Lou starts off pitch 1 (30mtr, 4a) and after a fair amount of faff eventually gets to the belay ledge.  Pitch 2 was short and sweet, 15mtrs with the hardest move getting onto the face after the belay ledge.  Pitch 3: 18mtrs with more pleasant slab climbing on quartz patches.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

Pitch 4 – and this is where things get blurred, should have been 37mtrs according to the guide book, but I climb past the shitty belay ‘ledge’ as my experience tells me I have not even climbed 30mtrs yet, and continue to make the obvious terrace up higher.  But I’m using a 50mtr half rope (thanks to Mr. C) with Lou’s 60mtr half rope (good job we swapped it out at the last minute!).  So when I run out of blue rope I yell down “take me off blue!”.  Just two more mtrs and I make the terrace.  Luckily there were people on the other lines to relay messages between us, as I had joined the 4th and 5th pitch, giving 67mtrs so sayeth the guide book.  With one 50 mtr rope 2 mtrs short, and my 60 mtr rope giving me enough slack to build a multipoint belay, the two pitches weigh in at 53mtrs.  Someone really should edit and correct these damn guidebooks – they charge enough moola for them.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

Last pitch before a 100mtr scramble to the ab station is the crux, 4b but only in 15mtrs.  Lou steps up admirably.  An excellent adventure, taking 6 hours.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

HS 4b

Posted 2017/07/04 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2017-07-01 Wales, Trevor, Compact Wall   Leave a comment

We were here around 4 weeks ago to mop up some star routes, but because we weren’t concentrating whilst reading the guide book, we omitted the top-50 star route of Traction Control, 6c.  So even though this were to be a trad weekend, slight moisture in Llanberis meant we rocked up to tick this line and see if Lou can finally get her 6a+.

The Great Escape, 6a+

We warm up on The Great Escape, 6a+ leaving the draws for Lou for a possible redpoint attempt.  Not bad, a little technical, not gifting you much with the grade, but neither is it a 6b, so all good.  Emma opens the nice Snakes In The Grass, 6b just up the road a little, and once I’ve stripped it, I get on Traction Control, 6c.  It looks like there’s been a few breakages low down – some orangey coloured rock where all else is grey, and it feels very bouldery and hard.  It probably was a 6c when it was put up, but now feels more like 6c++.

Traction Control, 6c

With problems just getting both feet off the ground, my onsight is quickly ruined, and I try a few different starts.  Difficult to read, technical, bouldery, it is a lovely line, with the difficulties at the first and upto the 2nd clip.  Make the second clip and you should be golden.  My beta wasn’t good for Emma though, so she’ll have to work it out for herself.  Lou meanwhile is toproping Escape several times, no doubt memorising every millimetre of it.

With Traction ticked, I move onto Hornier Toad, 6b which is pleasant and ultimately put the bolts for Lou on her nearly 6b, Crime Scene on Suspect Wall.  A good day.

6a+   6b   6c   6b   6b

Posted 2017/07/03 by allend66 in Rockclimbing, Trevor

2016-10-16 Arginonta Valley   Leave a comment

So we thought we’d rinse out most of Arginonta Valley, even though they’re new, they will be trashed very soon indeed.  Mix shade all day, with easy grades and a super short walk in, and you’ve got a recipe for crowds and lots of traffic.  On the Middle Wall, we do Ahtarmas, 5a followed by Hippocrates, 6a and then Patókorfa, 6a+ and Tricky-Tricky Mana Mou, 6b+ – route of the day.

On Left Wall, the ticklist reads: Wanderlust, 6c super pumpy, so we go back to Grigna, 6b then Ravasaki, 6a+ and Damos, 6a+ and finally Bohemian Mermaid Ext., 6c+ to finish.

Bohemian Mermaid Ext, 6c+

You heard it here first – get in there before it becomes a polished nightmare.

5a   6a   6a+   6b+   6c   6b   6a+   6a+   6c+

Posted 2016/11/29 by allend66 in Arginonta, Kalymnos, Rockclimbing

2016-10-15 Arginonta Skyline, Little Verdon   Leave a comment

A looong schlep in, this is a fairly distant crag, both from the accommodation and from the parking.  But it was recommended and we hadn’t tried it before, so we were up for a new experience.  And we were glad we did.  After arriving and resting for 5, we warm up on Lou Lou, 6a+ and Zipfelmutz, 6b.  Ready for a fight, Tom Tom Club, 7a+ looks beefy and we have a play on it but it’s thuggy and pumpy and overhanging – not my style.  It also seems to be on top of a goat latrine, and the ammonia smell is a little distracting.

2016-10-15 15 Little Verdon

We leave this and go back right along the wall to a musical note 7a, Fioca with which I was looking to up my onsight tally by one, but it was a little hard to read.  I put a couple of chalk tick marks and send it 2nd try – a magnificent line.  Route of the day.

Fioca, 7a

Though the sun has now arrived, I continue with Trou Por Trou, 6b to cool down before being out-voted to hit Emporios, for beer, beach and nosebag.

After too long a lunch, we rock up to Arginonta Valley, where my belayer informs me he is on strike after three routes, so I look for 3-star routes in the guide, and surprise, surprise, they are ALL 3 stars!  The guidebook people definitely need an editor.  I do Rhythm Of The Rain, 6a, Thunder Road, 6b, and Rufixius, 6a+.  There isn’t really anything to differentiate between them, they are all pleasant, all dusty, and all showing early signs of polish.  A good day.

6a+   6b   7a+   7a   7a   6b   6a   6b   6a+

Posted 2016/11/28 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2016-10-14 Kalymnos, Gerakios   Leave a comment

First time in this sector, and it doesn’t seem to be too bad.  Not great, not bad.  We start on Open Book, 6a+ though we couldn’t find the ‘plus’.  All very nice and accessible, without too much effort.

Open Book, 6a+

Titis Blues, 6b+ to its left was magnificent, and worth three stars.  Still in shade, Hannah, 6a+ was nice but very sharp.  Grufelo, 6b+ was also sharp but only of reasonable quality.  Flag, 6a was a disappointment, also harrowing on the skin, but things picked up for the nice line Little Gio, 6a+Reader, 6a to finish the day – an ok climb to an above-average morning session.

Titis Blues, 6b+

6a+   6b+   6a+   6b+   6a   6a+   6a

Posted 2016/11/24 by allend66 in Gerakios, Kalymnos, Rockclimbing

2016-10-13 Kalymnos, Arhi & Arginonta Valley   Leave a comment

We sampled Arhi last year, and it is a great sector, so it was no bad thing to return there.  There are plenty of routes to do, slab, vertical, and overhanging.  It starts to loose the shade at around noon, with the sun creeping round to the right of the sector a couple of hours later.

Pares, 6a and Deimos, 6b are two excellent warmups, and we continue with Stanislas, 6a+ before heading over to the right-hand corner where there is an overhanging tufa-fest Kastor, 7a

2016-10-13 19 Arhi Main Right   2016-10-13 13 Arhi Main Right

Easy but still 7a” the book suggests.  There’s only 6 bolts on it and it looks fierce.  So not-my-style, and I bail on it after 3 bolts.  I’m not in shape and don’t fancy trashing any tendons.  I get back on easy stuff – Triaina, 6b+, but the sun and heat have arrived, so it’s time for a dip in the sea, a chill on the beach, lunch, and a regroup to last year’s new sector Arginonta Valley.

2016-10-13 28 Arginonta Valley Right Wall

Already showing early signs of polish, anyone wanting to take advantage of the mostly nice lines here should hurry up and visit it quick before the holds get glassy and smooth.  The fact is most people are lazy, and when you combine the literally 2-minute walk in with shade nearly all day, and wide range of easy grades, you know it’s going to get busy.  L’Engeance, 6a+ was an excellent introduction, we continued with Gastelclou, 6a+, Rock Tragos, 6a, Ad-Hoc, 6b, Le Bleu Du Ciel, 6b+, Bancroche, 6a and Idoine, 6a.  Standout lines are Ad-Hoc and Ciel, both magnificent.  The other lines, while not being bad, are all very samey, and difficult to remember one from the others.

6a   6b   6a+   7a   6b+   6a+   6a+   6a   6b   6b+   6a   6a

Posted 2016/11/09 by allend66 in Arginonta, Arhi, Kalymnos, Rockclimbing