Archive for the ‘Rockclimbing’ Category

2016-10-16 Arginonta Valley   Leave a comment

So we thought we’d rinse out most of Arginonta Valley, even though they’re new, they will be trashed very soon indeed.  Mix shade all day, with easy grades and a super short walk in, and you’ve got a recipe for crowds and lots of traffic.  On the Middle Wall, we do Ahtarmas, 5a followed by Hippocrates, 6a and then Patókorfa, 6a+ and Tricky-Tricky Mana Mou, 6b+ – route of the day.

On Left Wall, the ticklist reads: Wanderlust, 6c super pumpy, so we go back to Grigna, 6b then Ravasaki, 6a+ and Damos, 6a+ and finally Bohemian Mermaid Ext., 6c+ to finish.

Bohemian Mermaid Ext, 6c+

You heard it here first – get in there before it becomes a polished nightmare.

5a   6a   6a+   6b+   6c   6b   6a+   6a+   6c+

Posted 2016/11/29 by allend66 in Arginonta, Kalymnos, Rockclimbing

2016-10-14 Kalymnos, Gerakios   Leave a comment

First time in this sector, and it doesn’t seem to be too bad.  Not great, not bad.  We start on Open Book, 6a+ though we couldn’t find the ‘plus’.  All very nice and accessible, without too much effort.

Open Book, 6a+

Titis Blues, 6b+ to its left was magnificent, and worth three stars.  Still in shade, Hannah, 6a+ was nice but very sharp.  Grufelo, 6b+ was also sharp but only of reasonable quality.  Flag, 6a was a disappointment, also harrowing on the skin, but things picked up for the nice line Little Gio, 6a+Reader, 6a to finish the day – an ok climb to an above-average morning session.

Titis Blues, 6b+

6a+   6b+   6a+   6b+   6a   6a+   6a

Posted 2016/11/24 by allend66 in Gerakios, Kalymnos, Rockclimbing

2016-10-13 Kalymnos, Arhi & Arginonta Valley   Leave a comment

We sampled Arhi last year, and it is a great sector, so it was no bad thing to return there.  There are plenty of routes to do, slab, vertical, and overhanging.  It starts to loose the shade at around noon, with the sun creeping round to the right of the sector a couple of hours later.

Pares, 6a and Deimos, 6b are two excellent warmups, and we continue with Stanislas, 6a+ before heading over to the right-hand corner where there is an overhanging tufa-fest Kastor, 7a

2016-10-13 19 Arhi Main Right   2016-10-13 13 Arhi Main Right

Easy but still 7a” the book suggests.  There’s only 6 bolts on it and it looks fierce.  So not-my-style, and I bail on it after 3 bolts.  I’m not in shape and don’t fancy trashing any tendons.  I get back on easy stuff – Triaina, 6b+, but the sun and heat have arrived, so it’s time for a dip in the sea, a chill on the beach, lunch, and a regroup to last year’s new sector Arginonta Valley.

2016-10-13 28 Arginonta Valley Right Wall

Already showing early signs of polish, anyone wanting to take advantage of the mostly nice lines here should hurry up and visit it quick before the holds get glassy and smooth.  The fact is most people are lazy, and when you combine the literally 2-minute walk in with shade nearly all day, and wide range of easy grades, you know it’s going to get busy.  L’Engeance, 6a+ was an excellent introduction, we continued with Gastelclou, 6a+, Rock Tragos, 6a, Ad-Hoc, 6b, Le Bleu Du Ciel, 6b+, Bancroche, 6a and Idoine, 6a.  Standout lines are Ad-Hoc and Ciel, both magnificent.  The other lines, while not being bad, are all very samey, and difficult to remember one from the others.

6a   6b   6a+   7a   6b+   6a+   6a+   6a   6b   6b+   6a   6a

Posted 2016/11/09 by allend66 in Arginonta, Arhi, Kalymnos, Rockclimbing

2016-10-12 Greece, Kalymnos, Poets   Leave a comment

That time of year again, some welcome winter sun is needed and so we find ourselves looking out at the Aegean sea on a firm favourite – Kalymnos.  It’s just after the North Face Festival, so the island seems to be a little busier than last year.  Poets is a sector very close to Masouri, so we leave the hogs and walk.  A day of easy stuff, as we haven’t climbed for ages, and it’s a new crag.  So we start things off with the very nice Anacreonta, 6a.  Again, as we discussed in last year’s post, the guide book literally stars every route, so a little viewer discretion is required to counteract the lack of decent guidebook editorial staff.

Next up is Sapfo, 6a+, along with Styx, 6a+ and Dreads, 6b.  All fairly good climbs, with Dreads standing out as being a corker.  There’s thin climbing on that broccoli-type mineral growth rock from seepage from the huge overhanging roof, so it’s sharp on the fingers, but ultra grippy.  The rock shoes are like velcro.

Homeric Verses, 6a+

Homeric Verses, 6a+ and Saxonia, 6a are also nice, and even though the rest of the gang want to bail from the sun, I fit in a quick Damocles, 6a+.  Nice sector, not a bad climb done.

6a   6a+   6a+   6b   6a+   6a   6a+

Posted 2016/11/03 by allend66 in Kalymnos, Poets, Rockclimbing

2016-10-04 Llanymynech, Grid Iron   Leave a comment

Bah Bah Black Sheep, 6b+ and Gaza Stripper, 6b serve as warmers before I try to get past the damn overlap on Pew, 7a+.  A work in progress….

6b+   6b   7a+   7a+

Posted 2016/11/01 by allend66 in Llanymynech, Rockclimbing

2016-09-12 Wales, Fedw Fawr   Leave a comment

Over on the Island of Anglesey, we planned on doing a bit on a couple of crags, but the weather wasn’t good.  Very strong gusts and sea spray meant this part of Wales was just not going to happen today, so plan B – we drive down to a little spot called Fedw Fawr, White Beach Crag.

We only have time for 3 routes.   Bunty, 6a+, Tricky Fruitbat, 6a+, and the world’s hardest 6b, Mike’s Glory.  Not a bad crag, but as it’s limited in the amount of lines there are, I doubt we’ll be back here again.  It was however a nice retreat when most other places were with bad weather conditions.

2016-09-12 08 White Beach Crag

6a+   6a+   6b

Posted 2016/11/01 by allend66 in Rockclimbing

2016-09-07 Llanymynech, Red Wall   Leave a comment

As the newest member of our 7a+ onsight/flash club remarked yesterday, “[even though it has several climbs in the Clwyd Top-50 list, the Red Wall] doesn’t look very inspiring…”, And I’ve got to hand it to him.  It has the look of a very quarried, very man-made looking wall, with lots of unnatural angles, and plenty of dust & grime.  And the potential for taking a fall, and landing onto a nasty out-jutting bit of rock doesn’t really inspire confidence.  I do however plan to have a look at all the climbs on the aptly named Red Wall, and we continue today with the other easiest climb, Clematis, 6b+ in the corner. 

Clematis, 6b+

A sustained climb and intriguing warm up, I use it to lower down and clean off all the holds on the next route, the nice looking Poison Ivy, 7a+ on the short end wall.  I missed the onsight of this particular 7a+ a couple of days ago and wanted to get back on it.  Meanwhile, Marc smashes it, and the sun comes onto it for around 1 hour and then it’s back in shade.  I pulled off a couple of holds on this last time, but I manage to clip the anchors, a very long 35mtrs away without much drama. 

Poison Ivy, 7a+   Poison Ivy, 7a+

A super route, but it isn’t 7a as stated on sportsclimbs.  A recommended tick to anyone working 7a+.  Not so good if you’re new to 7a.

To finish the day, we cruise up A Night Torchlight Parade, 6c well, some of us do…

6b+   7a+   6c

Posted 2016/09/08 by allend66 in Llanymynech, Rockclimbing