Archive for the ‘Rockclimbing’ Category

2017-11-17 Switzerland, Vaud, Les Avants   Leave a comment

First time in Switzerland, and the beauty of the country is a little tarnished by low lying cloud and a little early morning fog.  Base camp is downtown Lausanne, so for this morning Lac Laman only looks slightly awesome.  With the ski stations opening last weekend is was a toss up between a bit of ski fun or rock climbing fun.  We chose the latter.

2017-11-17 17 Les Avants

Les Avants is a sector of limited appeal, but as UKC suggests, the routes are better than they look.  Because of the slightly higher altitude though, there is an inch of snow on the ground.  Not a problem – just change shoes on the dry tarp.  There’s also a mix of deciduous and evergreen trees surrounding the area, so Riccardo was having to brush away dead leaves off the holds (ledges, really).  First climb was a very leisurely L’Ours, 5a and the line to the right, La Grotte, 4a.  The route of the day was Chou A La Creme, only a 4a but super fun.  With the sun going, and the rock getting very cold indeed, we finish on 6a, Les Fourmis.

5   4   4   6a


Posted 2017/11/27 by allend66 in Rockclimbing

2017-07-05 Llanymynech, Nomad Wall, Red Wall   Leave a comment

Arriving with sun on all walls, we warm up on the shitty lower section of Nomad Wall – at least giving shade to the belayer.  We only have to wait about an hour for Red Wall to become shady, so we use the time to tick Dentine, 5+, Pull ‘Em Out, 6a+ and Another Filling, 6b+.

2017-07-05 Nomad Wall

With the bird ban restricting climbing from March up to June 30th, we fear that Red Wall will be dusty from lack of traffic.  We get on Long John Codling, 7a but it shuts me down completely at the crux at the 9th bolt.  It is dusty, but the crux is rather beastly for a 7a.  Sweat is dripping of us so we don’t invest any more time on it today.

5+   6a   6b+   7a   7a

Posted 2017/07/06 by allend66 in Llanymynech, Rockclimbing

2017-07-01 Wales, Trevor, Compact Wall   Leave a comment

We were here around 4 weeks ago to mop up some star routes, but because we weren’t concentrating whilst reading the guide book, we omitted the top-50 star route of Traction Control, 6c.  So even though this were to be a trad weekend, slight moisture in Llanberis meant we rocked up to tick this line and see if Lou can finally get her 6a+.

The Great Escape, 6a+

We warm up on The Great Escape, 6a+ leaving the draws for Lou for a possible redpoint attempt.  Not bad, a little technical, not gifting you much with the grade, but neither is it a 6b, so all good.  Emma opens the nice Snakes In The Grass, 6b just up the road a little, and once I’ve stripped it, I get on Traction Control, 6c.  It looks like there’s been a few breakages low down – some orangey coloured rock where all else is grey, and it feels very bouldery and hard.  It probably was a 6c when it was put up, but now feels more like 6c++.

Traction Control, 6c

With problems just getting both feet off the ground, my onsight is quickly ruined, and I try a few different starts.  Difficult to read, technical, bouldery, it is a lovely line, with the difficulties at the first and upto the 2nd clip.  Make the second clip and you should be golden.  My beta wasn’t good for Emma though, so she’ll have to work it out for herself.  Lou meanwhile is toproping Escape several times, no doubt memorising every millimetre of it.

With Traction ticked, I move onto Hornier Toad, 6b which is pleasant and ultimately put the bolts for Lou on her nearly 6b, Crime Scene on Suspect Wall.  A good day.

6a+   6b   6c   6b   6b

Posted 2017/07/03 by allend66 in Rockclimbing, Trevor

2016-10-16 Arginonta Valley   Leave a comment

So we thought we’d rinse out most of Arginonta Valley, even though they’re new, they will be trashed very soon indeed.  Mix shade all day, with easy grades and a super short walk in, and you’ve got a recipe for crowds and lots of traffic.  On the Middle Wall, we do Ahtarmas, 5a followed by Hippocrates, 6a and then Patókorfa, 6a+ and Tricky-Tricky Mana Mou, 6b+ – route of the day.

On Left Wall, the ticklist reads: Wanderlust, 6c super pumpy, so we go back to Grigna, 6b then Ravasaki, 6a+ and Damos, 6a+ and finally Bohemian Mermaid Ext., 6c+ to finish.

Bohemian Mermaid Ext, 6c+

You heard it here first – get in there before it becomes a polished nightmare.

5a   6a   6a+   6b+   6c   6b   6a+   6a+   6c+

Posted 2016/11/29 by allend66 in Arginonta, Kalymnos, Rockclimbing

2016-10-14 Kalymnos, Gerakios   Leave a comment

First time in this sector, and it doesn’t seem to be too bad.  Not great, not bad.  We start on Open Book, 6a+ though we couldn’t find the ‘plus’.  All very nice and accessible, without too much effort.

Open Book, 6a+

Titis Blues, 6b+ to its left was magnificent, and worth three stars.  Still in shade, Hannah, 6a+ was nice but very sharp.  Grufelo, 6b+ was also sharp but only of reasonable quality.  Flag, 6a was a disappointment, also harrowing on the skin, but things picked up for the nice line Little Gio, 6a+Reader, 6a to finish the day – an ok climb to an above-average morning session.

Titis Blues, 6b+

6a+   6b+   6a+   6b+   6a   6a+   6a

Posted 2016/11/24 by allend66 in Gerakios, Kalymnos, Rockclimbing

2016-10-13 Kalymnos, Arhi & Arginonta Valley   Leave a comment

We sampled Arhi last year, and it is a great sector, so it was no bad thing to return there.  There are plenty of routes to do, slab, vertical, and overhanging.  It starts to loose the shade at around noon, with the sun creeping round to the right of the sector a couple of hours later.

Pares, 6a and Deimos, 6b are two excellent warmups, and we continue with Stanislas, 6a+ before heading over to the right-hand corner where there is an overhanging tufa-fest Kastor, 7a

2016-10-13 19 Arhi Main Right   2016-10-13 13 Arhi Main Right

Easy but still 7a” the book suggests.  There’s only 6 bolts on it and it looks fierce.  So not-my-style, and I bail on it after 3 bolts.  I’m not in shape and don’t fancy trashing any tendons.  I get back on easy stuff – Triaina, 6b+, but the sun and heat have arrived, so it’s time for a dip in the sea, a chill on the beach, lunch, and a regroup to last year’s new sector Arginonta Valley.

2016-10-13 28 Arginonta Valley Right Wall

Already showing early signs of polish, anyone wanting to take advantage of the mostly nice lines here should hurry up and visit it quick before the holds get glassy and smooth.  The fact is most people are lazy, and when you combine the literally 2-minute walk in with shade nearly all day, and wide range of easy grades, you know it’s going to get busy.  L’Engeance, 6a+ was an excellent introduction, we continued with Gastelclou, 6a+, Rock Tragos, 6a, Ad-Hoc, 6b, Le Bleu Du Ciel, 6b+, Bancroche, 6a and Idoine, 6a.  Standout lines are Ad-Hoc and Ciel, both magnificent.  The other lines, while not being bad, are all very samey, and difficult to remember one from the others.

6a   6b   6a+   7a   6b+   6a+   6a+   6a   6b   6b+   6a   6a

Posted 2016/11/09 by allend66 in Arginonta, Arhi, Kalymnos, Rockclimbing

2016-10-12 Greece, Kalymnos, Poets   Leave a comment

That time of year again, some welcome winter sun is needed and so we find ourselves looking out at the Aegean sea on a firm favourite – Kalymnos.  It’s just after the North Face Festival, so the island seems to be a little busier than last year.  Poets is a sector very close to Masouri, so we leave the hogs and walk.  A day of easy stuff, as we haven’t climbed for ages, and it’s a new crag.  So we start things off with the very nice Anacreonta, 6a.  Again, as we discussed in last year’s post, the guide book literally stars every route, so a little viewer discretion is required to counteract the lack of decent guidebook editorial staff.

Next up is Sapfo, 6a+, along with Styx, 6a+ and Dreads, 6b.  All fairly good climbs, with Dreads standing out as being a corker.  There’s thin climbing on that broccoli-type mineral growth rock from seepage from the huge overhanging roof, so it’s sharp on the fingers, but ultra grippy.  The rock shoes are like velcro.

Homeric Verses, 6a+

Homeric Verses, 6a+ and Saxonia, 6a are also nice, and even though the rest of the gang want to bail from the sun, I fit in a quick Damocles, 6a+.  Nice sector, not a bad climb done.

6a   6a+   6a+   6b   6a+   6a   6a+

Posted 2016/11/03 by allend66 in Kalymnos, Poets, Rockclimbing