Archive for the ‘Arboli’ Category

2015-03-08 Arbolí, Can Simiro Izquierda   Leave a comment

Can Simiro has some wonderful lines, and is a great spot for today.  Sunny (south facing) though a slight breeze makes for a pleasant day.  We had warmed up on a few lines in Can Mansa, and that’s where we left the ‘family’ group of climbers, but we all have projects to complete in Izquierda.  I wanted to send two nice lines from last trip, Agua De Fuego, 7a and No M’Enganyis Mes, 7a/+ (reportedly downgraded from 7a+).  I try Agua, remebering that I had different beta to Paco, and struggle up it remembering its idiosyncrasies.  Short crux section but pumpy.  I retry it but I wasn’t feeling it today.  Out of practice, and I had already bloodied up 3 fingers from Patxanca, 7a in Mansa.  I’m not sure if it’s so nice as to try it another day, now that I have been up it 4 times.

Anyway, the line next to it is very nice and well recommended – No M’Enganyis Mes, 7a+ is a wonderful technical route with some nice and not so logical climbing.  People tell me it has lots its ‘+’ but for me, I think it warrants the harder grade if at the far right midpoint you do not take the easy jugs that also serve for Agua.  But this seems to be the latest trend in and around Siurana – downgrading routes.  Anyway, whether it’s 7a or 7a+, it’s very nice, but I only have time and energy for one try.  I get past the crux, fall, then forget the traverse at the top.

2015-03-08 Arboli

Hope to be back here soon, to mop up the other 7s in this sector. 

6a+   7a   7a   7a   7a+

Posted 2015/03/16 by allend66 in Arboli, Can Simiro, Rockclimbing

2014-06-01 L’Aparador & Can Simiro   Leave a comment

It’s been a couple of years now since I last did Sorry Not Clean, 6b in the shady sector, but wow, the crux move half way up is now like marble!  It’s getting polished, but that is inevitable as there’s little to warm up on here.  Pantxi’s new-ish route El Hombre Con Cara De Seta, 6c is an odd line.  there’s a thin move half way then a ramp, then the last vertical bit.  I miss the flash with a silly mistake just below the anchor, but a sillier mistake was to try and clean the route off a lead – it should be cleaned on a toprope.

Anyway, we just have enough time to flash the nice Gatzara, 6c which is also getting buffed to a high shine, before Paco has to go and I meet up with Jake and his crew at Arbolí’s Can Simiro Derecha.

Anthony is working a nice looking 7b, Els Impresentables so I have a look at it.  Boulder start, but it gets nice after that, till the overhanging crux on sharp, thin crimps.  To cool down, I do Esperó, 6b+ which I think I have only sent once in god knows how many tries.  It’s hard (for a 6b+) and getting polished too.

2014-06-01 6 Can Simiro

6b   6c   6c   7b   6b+

2014-05-31 Spain, Arbolí, El Falcó   Leave a comment

Early morning shade here, and the temperature is quite cold.  After a few routes we move round to try Oscar’s latest novelty, Desvariant, 7b in L’Obaga Del Falcó.  It’s nice and thin (and sharp) with the crux coming at the traverse at the top.

Desvariant, 7b

A nice route which we’ll come back to.

6b+   6b+   7b   7b

Posted 2014/06/13 by allend66 in Arboli, El Falco, L'Obaga, Rockclimbing

2014-03-28 Arbolí, L’Ermita   Leave a comment

We had fond memories of this place, but on returning here to do some short routes, we were so not impressed.  Hashishishins, 7a is still painful and sharp and ultimately not all that pleasing to do.  Not a great sector.  Not even a good sector, though there is the odd diamond in the rough to be found.

6a   7a   7a   7a+   6c+

Posted 2014/04/15 by allend66 in Arboli, L'Ermita, Rockclimbing

2014-03-27 Arbolí, Can Simiro Izquierda   Leave a comment

A quick stopoff at Simiro Izquierda to see if we can bag the pumpy 7a, Agua De Fuego and the nice looking 7a+ next to it, No M’Enganys Mes.  So we warm up in the wind, Tu Vas A Lo Que Vas, 5 and Y Luego Pasa Lo Que Pasa, 6b+

I peel off the 6b+ but my heart isn’t in it.  I’ve got sniffles and a sore throat, though the line is nice.  Then we both have two tries on the 7a and fail to send it.  But we’ve got time to try Enganys and it is very nice.  Steady climbing up to the traverse up top.  This should be sent 2nd time, so I’ll have to come back when I’m not off form.  Recommended route.

No M'Enganys Mes, 7a+

5   6b+   7a   7a   7a+

Posted 2014/04/15 by allend66 in Arboli, Can Simiro, Rockclimbing

2014-03-23 Arbolí, Raco Emmanuelle   Leave a comment

As I’m a good egg and I already have it sent, I open the wonderful Barrenari, 7a+ for Chema to send on his 2nd try.  Though I try and climb it from memory (it has a few quirks) instead of just climbing what’s in front of me, I mess up both the thin bit lower down and the long reach over the roof.  Still, great fun and with 2 (or 3 if you count after the 1st bolt) hands-free rests, a fairly soft-touch 7a+.

Barrenari, 7a+

Warm up on Tarraf! 6b – another nice line.

6b   7a+

Posted 2014/04/08 by allend66 in Arboli, Raco d'Emmanuelle, Rockclimbing

2014-03-21 Arbolí, Can Simiro Izquierda   Leave a comment

Lucky enough to have a few days in Spain, though not quite lucky enough to have it sunny, warm and without wind, the climbing was nice but chilly.  I had climbed in this sector once before, but I remember nothing of it.  We warm up on Mighty Pennis, 6a+ quite pumpy for its 32mtrs,  and then we are eyeing the nice looking Agua De Fuego, 7aPaco opens it, gives us some crap beta, something about a RH gaston, LH cross over pinch, blah blah… Chema falls on it, I fall on it.  2nd try all the same, though I have a better method for doing it after my 2nd fail.  Forgetting the Gaston and directly taking the cross over pinch but now with my RH, it feels more logical and easier.  Then there’s a LH undercling, foot up and to the pocket to clip.  But I still fall after that.  Actually a very pumpy route, but we have fun with it.

Agua De Fuego, 7a

6a+   7a   7a

Posted 2014/04/07 by allend66 in Arboli, Can Simiro, Rockclimbing