Archive for the ‘El Falco’ Category

2014-05-31 Spain, Arbolí, El Falcó   Leave a comment

Early morning shade here, and the temperature is quite cold.  After a few routes we move round to try Oscar’s latest novelty, Desvariant, 7b in L’Obaga Del Falcó.  It’s nice and thin (and sharp) with the crux coming at the traverse at the top.

Desvariant, 7b

A nice route which we’ll come back to.

6b+   6b+   7b   7b


Posted 2014/06/13 by allend66 in Arboli, El Falco, L'Obaga, Rockclimbing

2013-03-03 Arbolí, El Falcó   Leave a comment

Grand sector, I open the mighty 40mtr Haber Pedido Muerte, 6c+ to warm up.  I’ll definitely buy an 80mtr rope next time I renew.  I try the very nice looking Pa Ella Y Pa Los Guiris, 7a+ to the right.  Very nice but I don’t send it.  It’s fairly straight forward till the roof crux, then it’s very physical and a little polished.  I work it a little, but decide to strip it as I don’t think one more try will get me the redpoint, and it will destroy me for the rest of the day.

Pa Ella Y Pa Los Guiris, 7a+   El Cagat, 7b   Pere Mata, 6c

Alvaro is fighting Haber Pedido, and Oscar & Guillem on La Millor De… 6c.  I take advantage of a top-rope on El Cagat, 7b but it’s difficult.  After this I open the sustained and difficult 6c, Pere Mata and then finish the day with another difficult 6c, Melissa.

6c+   7a+   7b   6c   6c

Posted 2013/03/07 by allend66 in Arboli, El Falco, Rockclimbing

2013-01-08 Arbolí, El Falcó   Leave a comment

Still getting over the damn flu bug that wiped my Christmas and New Year, I feel like I’m just ticking over today as I redpoint the excellent 40mtr Haber Pedido Muerte, 6c+ for my warm up.  Just possibly the best 6c+ around.  La Millor De… 6c afterwards and then I can’t send a previous onsight, another nice 6c+, Trenca’m Els Pinyos.  I have the second and third pitches pending.  Javier & Pere play on it as the sun sets and the temperature drops to 5º.

2013-01-08 4 El Falco

6c+   6c   6c+

Posted 2013/01/10 by allend66 in Arboli, El Falco, Rockclimbing

2012-04-09 Arbolí, El Falcó   Leave a comment

Ecstasy!  Falcó continues to enchant us, and today another super day climbing to a T.  I run up Borinot, both pitches, 6b+, 7a and clean it.  My pending project was onsighted – a really nice 6c+, Trenca’m Els Pinyos.  The second pitch of 7a and 3rd 7a+ are to do but not today, maybe Fly can put his pilas and we’ll nail it?  Derek and Fly here relaxing just after the crux:

2012-04-09 07 El Falco   2012-04-09 14 El Falco

Only one more route today, another 40mtr epic Per Tutatis, 7a+ (they say 6c+ up to the intermediate lower-off, 7a+ above but it’s thin from the first move off the ground, and the 1st bolt is high).  Right after the lower-off is the crux and I couldn’t see how to do it.  Dani egyptianed it and now I see it could be doable, the drop knee converting the crap RH undercut into a good hold while gaining height.  Might try it again.

Today’s the last day climbing with Jordi, Monica, Dani, Rosa, & the kids, they go back to Girona, with the threat of showing us around Sadernas, their local school.  Looking forward to it…

2012-04-09 35 El Falco

7a   6c+   7a+   Photos

Posted 2012/04/11 by allend66 in Arboli, El Falco

2012-03-25 Arbolí, El Falcó   Leave a comment

Well, what a cosmic day at El Falcó today, sin duda, Arbolí’s finest sector.  Paco hasn’t been here for like, 6 years and as I’m a gentleman… he takes the reins and I clean everything.  I have a couple of projects pending (two more 6c+ onsights), but a bit of give and take, eh?

First Borinot, 6b+ (intermediate lower-off) and then he opens the stunning Haber Pedido Muerte, 6c+.  He misses the onsight this time but gets it on The Best Of… ( La Millor De… ) 6c, and two redpoints for me.

Here’s Derek getting ready for it:


The next route is Arri, Riccardo! 6c+ and Paco takes a few flights, I flash this, improvising my ascent from his beta (Sloper?  What sloper?!).

Lusiernaga De La Noshe, 6b+ is the last climb as we’re tired (still plenty of light left), but Paco bails and I mop it up.  With the long routes here we’re going for stamina training today as I need the pila.  Next visit should, should give me the other 6c+ onsight, and to dip my toe in the water of the 7a+.  A ver

6b+   6c+   6c   6c+   6b+   Photos

Posted 2012/03/26 by allend66 in Arboli, El Falco

2012-03-15 Arbolí, El Falcó   1 comment


Continuing our tick list here of great climbs, Fly warms up on first pitch Borinot, 6b+ and then onto the 40mtr 6c+ epic Haber Pedido Muerte.  He gets past the first crux easily – that long reach of his is very useful!  Falling at the next horizontal crack, he continues up to the next crux but decides to bail and save some strength for other lines.  Fortunately this top crux is just 34 metres up, so no rethread necessary.  I manage to redpoint this excellent line, that should have been onsighted the last time I was on it.  Well, either way it’s been sent now.

Haber Pedido Muerte, 6c+

La Millor De… 6c was a nice redpoint for us both, then we were onto the thin and hard Bolongo, 6c+.  Might have been my 1st onsight at this grade, if (a) I hadn’t seen Fly do have of it & bail, and (b) I hadn’t slipped getting off the ground.  A restart got me the redpoint though it was hard work.  There’s another 30mtr 6c+ I’m saving for onsighting to the right…

6b+   6c+   6c   6c+   Photos

Posted 2012/03/16 by allend66 in Arboli, El Falco

2012-03-01 Arbolí, El Falcó   Leave a comment

Definitely one of the best days at work for a long time this.  El Falcó is not a sector for beginners – you have to warm up on 6b+, that said neither is it a high end sector which draws the world’s elite.  High 6s / low to mid 7s, long routes in afternoon sun.  Today another couple of 6c flash / onsight as I make my way through the list.  Fly and myself warm up on the first pitch of Borinot, 6b+ though that first climb of the day nearly always seems to be clumsy.

Pere Mata, 6c

With Siurana in the background in the photo above, Pere Mata, 6c a near onsight for Fly is nice and sustained.  Another great route.  Next to this, Melissa, 6c has a block start and is also nice and sustained.  Flash & onsight respectively.

We descend to the super route La Millor De… 6c to see if Fly can get his first 6c onsight, but after stopping for lunch the rhythm’s broken and he’ll get this milestone another day.

To finish the day we nail the odd and little climbed Qué Tendrá El Negro? 6b+ to the right hand side.  Not worth repeating.

6b+   6c    6c   6c   6b+   Photos

Posted 2012/03/02 by allend66 in Arboli, El Falco