Archive for the ‘Gorge Du Tarn’ Category

2013-03-16 France, Gorge Du Tarn, Figues Au Cul   Leave a comment

We’re a little late in posting this blog but this magnificent, but polished line, in Figues was the cause of a damaged pulley tendon, 3rd finger, right hand. 

Les Couilles Au Cul, 7b+ is a stamina battering 50mtrs, with a 7a+ crux half way to the first 35mtr pitch, and the 7b+ finger-trashing crux at around 42mtrs.  Fortunately the crux comes after a near hands-free rest, but even so it’s thin and slopery.  A shame because it was nice until the pain.

Les Couilles Au Cul, 7b+

At least a 2 month rest for this bou, hopefully I’ll be back reporting soon.

6a+   7b+

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Posted 2013/04/06 by allend66 in Figues Au Cul, Gorge Du Tarn, Rockclimbing

2012-07-28 Gorge Du Tarn, De Que Fas Aqui?   Leave a comment

Our project, L’Homme Préssé, 7c has been downgraded to 7b+ in the new guide, due out in about a month’s time, so it’s lost its appeal.  Arachnide, 7c is still in need of some work, so to put the draws up we do the 6c+ next to it, C100 Francs.  Hard 6c+ I’d say, but once done with the sloper fissure on the top half of the route, I put all draws on the 7c.  Lorenzo gets to the 1st crux.  I get to the 2nd crux, though I still don’t have the 1st worked out.  Here I leave it, my fingers nicely hot and in the zone for La Femme Gri-Gri, 7b which simply has to be sent.  Dani sends it.  Caroline sends it.  No pressure then, I step up to the plate and remembering all sequences perfectly, finally send it.  Such a relief to catch the last jug on the last crux’s last move.  To end on a high, I shelve the 7a Lorenzo opens for another day.

6c+   7c   7b

2012-07-27 Gorge Du Tarn, De Que Fas Aqui? & Grand Toit   Leave a comment

I should‘ve sent Femme a couple of days ago, but then having my fingernail half detached took away some of the pleasure in doing the moves on this beautiful line.  Knowing the moves, I warm up on it, taking it easy, putting the draws up and taking the occasional rest.  After a while, I attempt my redpoint attempt and blow it at the 1st crux.  Fine, no problem, we fold a head down to Grand Toit to belay Franck on his next project, the 8b+ extension up right from Mehw Power, 8c+ which he crushed a few days ago, hiking the grade to 9a.  He’s working the upper part, so takes a traverse start avoiding Mehw’s crux, still weighing in at a fairly hefty hard 8b+.  Once worked, Lorenzo & I try out Que La Fête Commence, 7b.  We both work it twice, but it’s doable with a bit of time.  Franck’s back on the project and the time is getting on.  Tomorrow the big send…

7b   7b   7b

2012-07-25 Gorge Du Tarn, Psicobloc   Leave a comment

With my morning doing the 8km canoe trip down from La Meléne, I stop en route do do a little psicobloc on the river.  Good and high, though getting out of the water once you’ve fallen, with wet hands, and the slimy mossy overhang is a little difficult. 

2012-07-25 13 La Melene

Good fun nonetheless, however disaster strikes after rowing downstream.  I almost rip off a fingernail on the side of the kayak while rowing.  Once I get home it’s stopped bleeding and later I try an easy route with the guys in De Que Fas Aqui? but it starts bleeding again half way up the superb 40mtr 6a+ Maxus Tengus.  With my 7b send scuppered for today, I belay Lorenzo on our 7c project, Arachnide.  Tomorrow full-on rest.

6a+

Posted 2012/07/30 by allend66 in Gorge Du Tarn, Psicobloc, Rockclimbing

2012-07-24 Gorge Du Tarn, Calmez-Vous   Leave a comment

With the others doing multi-pitch, I’ve swapped partners today and am in Calmez-Vous, a sector with a slight overhang.  Dani & Yonas are working their projects, I warm up on a thuggy and pumpy 6b+ onsight of Porc Et Camion.  After this I open the sharp and physical 7a+ T’as Pas Un Nom? that’s a bit like a Margalef line, plenty of holes and pockets, plenty of them chalked up but only some of them useful.  After a rest I repeat it but miss an undercling for the send.  The pockets are quite sharp so I couldn’t be bothered to redpoint, and am belaying Yonas before big Franc shows up (he of the 8c+ crush).  Franck flashes a few routes with the last one left open for me to try, L’arrache Clou, 7a though the crux has me beaten.  Tomorrow much needed rest.

T'as Pas Un Nom, 7a+

6b+   7a+   7a+   7a

Posted 2012/07/29 by allend66 in Calmez-Vous, Gorge Du Tarn, Rockclimbing

2012-07-23 Gorge Du Tarn, De Que Fas Aqui?   Leave a comment

While the boys are playing at trad climbing the classic flake line of Aveyrozere, 6a I sport it and a new 35mtr 6a+ En Piste Les Ninis to warm up and I’m ready to draw up my 7b, La Femme Gri-Gri.  I work a sequence on the mid crux then top it out so it’s got all draws in place – now I rest for 40 minutes before my redpoint attempt and watch the others (Sharlene, Evelyn, Lorenzo, Taz) do various routes in this superb sector.  Here’s Lorenzo almost onsighting a 7a+ just left of Femme:

?, 7a+   ?, 7a+

Ready to roll I get past the first thin crux ok, then the mid crux with new foot sequence, and at the last move on the last crux I fall.  Grrrr!  Going to send this next time…

6a   6a+   7b   7b

2012-07-22 Gorge Du Tarn, Figue Au Cul & De Que Fas Aqui   Leave a comment

Lots of people here this morning in Figues, the easyish sector with a super-short approach.  We warm up on Le Nain Moutarde, 6a+, Helmet Or Not Helmet, 6a, a newish 6a and Saveur D’Épices, 6a+.  Over To Que Fas and I onsight the scary run-out and long 6c+ Xaqui.  Feeling good I bypass the 7a and 7a+ next to it and get to work on La Femme Gri-Gri, 7b.  Onsight blown at the 4th clip, this is technical and strong climbing on thin holds.  The whole of the bottom half, 18mtrs, is tough and there’s 3 cruxes.  Above this it’s nice 6c to the chain.  first try I stop 4 times, on the 2nd try I stop twice, but with the beta more or less down.  This should be sendable next try.  If not next try to put the draws, then I’ll redpoint this beautiful line second go.

2012-07-22 1   La Femme Gri-Gri, 7b   2012-07-22 3

6a+   6a   6a   6a+   6c+   7b   7b