Archive for the ‘Arginonta’ Category

2016-10-16 Arginonta Valley   Leave a comment

So we thought we’d rinse out most of Arginonta Valley, even though they’re new, they will be trashed very soon indeed.  Mix shade all day, with easy grades and a super short walk in, and you’ve got a recipe for crowds and lots of traffic.  On the Middle Wall, we do Ahtarmas, 5a followed by Hippocrates, 6a and then Patókorfa, 6a+ and Tricky-Tricky Mana Mou, 6b+ – route of the day.

On Left Wall, the ticklist reads: Wanderlust, 6c super pumpy, so we go back to Grigna, 6b then Ravasaki, 6a+ and Damos, 6a+ and finally Bohemian Mermaid Ext., 6c+ to finish.

Bohemian Mermaid Ext, 6c+

You heard it here first – get in there before it becomes a polished nightmare.

5a   6a   6a+   6b+   6c   6b   6a+   6a+   6c+

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Posted 2016/11/29 by allend66 in Arginonta, Kalymnos, Rockclimbing

2016-10-13 Kalymnos, Arhi & Arginonta Valley   Leave a comment

We sampled Arhi last year, and it is a great sector, so it was no bad thing to return there.  There are plenty of routes to do, slab, vertical, and overhanging.  It starts to loose the shade at around noon, with the sun creeping round to the right of the sector a couple of hours later.

Pares, 6a and Deimos, 6b are two excellent warmups, and we continue with Stanislas, 6a+ before heading over to the right-hand corner where there is an overhanging tufa-fest Kastor, 7a

2016-10-13 19 Arhi Main Right   2016-10-13 13 Arhi Main Right

Easy but still 7a” the book suggests.  There’s only 6 bolts on it and it looks fierce.  So not-my-style, and I bail on it after 3 bolts.  I’m not in shape and don’t fancy trashing any tendons.  I get back on easy stuff – Triaina, 6b+, but the sun and heat have arrived, so it’s time for a dip in the sea, a chill on the beach, lunch, and a regroup to last year’s new sector Arginonta Valley.

2016-10-13 28 Arginonta Valley Right Wall

Already showing early signs of polish, anyone wanting to take advantage of the mostly nice lines here should hurry up and visit it quick before the holds get glassy and smooth.  The fact is most people are lazy, and when you combine the literally 2-minute walk in with shade nearly all day, and wide range of easy grades, you know it’s going to get busy.  L’Engeance, 6a+ was an excellent introduction, we continued with Gastelclou, 6a+, Rock Tragos, 6a, Ad-Hoc, 6b, Le Bleu Du Ciel, 6b+, Bancroche, 6a and Idoine, 6a.  Standout lines are Ad-Hoc and Ciel, both magnificent.  The other lines, while not being bad, are all very samey, and difficult to remember one from the others.

6a   6b   6a+   7a   6b+   6a+   6a+   6a   6b   6b+   6a   6a

Posted 2016/11/09 by allend66 in Arginonta, Arhi, Kalymnos, Rockclimbing

2015-10-20 Kalymnos, Kastri & Arginonta   Leave a comment

The Main Wall at Kastri is this morning’s venue.  The rock here is mixed:  it is sometimes needle-sharp, sometimes smooth and rounded, sometimes clean sometimes dirty.  It all depends upon the routes you climb, as some of them have clearly seen a lot of traffic (and are more polished / less sharp), but other routes here are newer and need traffic up them to both clean the crap off them and smooth them off a little.

2015-10-20 01 Kastri Main Wall

Wasp, 5b was dirty and average.  But Fata, 6a was worth getting shoed up for.  Great climbing that gets steep at the end. Haramiss, 6a+ was different – 15mtrs of crappy slab, then 15mtrs of lovely technical sharp vertical rock.  Worth doing.  Principessa Giulia, 6c+ was pumpy and very nice.  Pocket pulling up steep rock.  The guide says ‘well spaced pockets and slopers’ which is right – if you find a sloper just move up to the next hole and it will be a juggy pocket… great stuff!

I had my eyes on the musical note 7a+ (more than 3 stars) to the right but it looks pumpy and time is running out – the sun has arrived and it is hot again.  Next to Giulia on the other side though is a 3* 6b+, Enchanted Castle which is like Giulia but easier.  It is very nice and worth doing – just make sure you move fast through the cave which is obviously the goat latrine.  Being sheltered from rain means the stench of caprine piss doesn’t get washed away, or even diluted.

Oh, and just make sure you keep an eye on your rope length, we saw some classic schoolboy errors here today.

Cap Arvithis, 6b

The afternoon session was back at Infra Red Wall on Pornokini, 6a (polished) and Cap Arvithis, 6b.  I haven’t found a bad climb in this sector yet.

5b   6a   6a+   6c+   6b+   6a   6b

Posted 2015/10/31 by allend66 in Arginonta, Kalymnos, Kastri, Rockclimbing

2015-10-19 Greece, Kalymnos, Arhi & Arginonta   Leave a comment

Well, it’s a dirty job but someone’s got to do it.  Kalymnos – Rock climbing paradise known the world over – was long overdue for a reconnoiter by Team Oracle, so we selflessly packed our bags and left behind the rain and cold to arrive to a very pleasant 27 degrees at the end of this year’s climbing season.  In fact it was too hot most days, as we had to retreat down to the beach for a dip and wait for the midday heat to diminish.

This year sees the release of the sixth edition of the Kalymnos Guide book.  Now, we had heard that Kaly has a bit of a reputation for soft touch ‘holiday grading’.  Let’s hope this is not true.

Day 1: Under excellent guidance from a vet, we hit Arhi’s Main Right sector for some easy plodding, just to get a feel for the rock.  First impression: The grading seems to be all over the place, some routes easy, some graded spot on, some routes hard for the grade.  Aristos, 5b (overgraded), Pinipon, 4c & Caronte, 4c+ (seemed right), all 3 done in my approach shoes with no noticeable difference in difficulty between the 3.  Maybe there’s a typo in the guidebook, say for example like the error on page 79, where lines 41/42 don’t match up with the photo?  OK, not very scientific climbing in approach shoes, so I don my trusty old Evolvs and do Arhaggelos, 5a then Carlo Non Farlo, 5b and a one move wonder 6a, Alba.  Hmmm, lemon squeezy.  I do the excellent Orione, 6a which is a 6a, polished, but a 6a… even if it is over bolted (13 in 25mtrs).  Now the sun is fierce and full on our backs, so we retreat to the sea and some lunch.

Orione, 6a

We hog up to Arginonta’s Infra Red Wall which looks great.  Orange limestone with lots of features.  Borhok, 6b worthy of 3 stars, Wild Sex, 6b (certainly a 3-starrer), Kosmas, 6b (no noticeable drop in quality), and a cool down 6a+, Free Style all leave me wanting more and in awe.  These brilliant 4 routes are just to the right of Pornokini, a polished 6a shown in the photo below, with an unknown climber just reaching the anchors:

Pornokini, 6a

I have formulated some opinions, but 1 day and 2 sectors is not conclusive – keep reading for more posts.  I am however going to like this trip….

5b   4c   4c+   5a   5b   6a   6a   6b   6b   6b   6a+

Posted 2015/10/29 by allend66 in Arginonta, Arhi, Kalymnos, Rockclimbing