Archive for the ‘La Mussara’ Category

2016-06-30 Centre Excursionista Maspujols   Leave a comment

Don’t miss the excellent article by Mr. Ivan Torres in June’s edition of Vertex, a look back at climbing history in our beloved La Mussara…


Posted 2016/06/30 by allend66 in La Mussara, Rockclimbing

2016-05-21 La Mussara, Lo Raval   Leave a comment

Lo Raval sector has been redeveloped.  Below is a new topo of the lines.  Line 13 (project, “Gijou“) will probably weigh in at around 7c

However, this little slice of heaven is currently home to a nesting falcon, who has made its nest above lines Kintros / Rosa Encarnada, at the right hand end of the sector, so please respect the climbing restrictions in place (prohibited till 31/05).


Lo Raval Topo, La Mussara

Posted 2016/05/21 by allend66 in La Mussara, Lo Raval, Rockclimbing

2016-05-04 Spain, La Mussara, Lo Raval   Leave a comment

Around this time last year, we reported the impending redevelopment of Mussara’s Lo Raval sector by the competent folk at the Centre Excursionista Maspujols.  Some of the gear here is over 25 years old, and in need of replacement.

The work has mostly been completed now, though there are still a few projects that need finishing.  We’re on a mission today to check a few of the routes and make sure the info is correct for an expanded topo for the sector.

Following the traditional descent via Grau Del Chaparro, (though there is a nice way in through the back door via Grau De Les Marrades Winking smile) Route 1 (new) is still a project, and thus unfinished.  There is then a gap of around 50mtrs of blank rock till you get to what we would call Lo Raval. Marked as route 2 on the topo, we check out the hard Nameless 6c.  Remember, this is La Mussara, an Old-School hard crag.

?, 6c

Edu has opened a new line, and here he is below trying El Falcó De Castelló.  Initially with a proposed grade of 7b/+, for me it is harder than 7b, with its hard start, hard middle and hard technical bridge up top, we agree on 7b+.  The name comes from a nesting falcon new to the area, which has taken up residence at the top of the crag a little ways to the right, above the easier lines of Kintros and Rosa Encarnada, and as such there is a climbing ban until the end of May.

El Faco De Castello, 7b+   2016-05-04 20 Lo Raval

We’re working on a decent topo now, and we also need to check the other lines before details are published by the Federació, who funded the rebolting.  One other thing to note is the extending of Chapi’s 1991 line El Emigrante up to 29mtrs in length, now rated at 6c with a new crux just below the chain.

Topo will be published shortly.  Maybe breathing new life into this great crag will bring it back to popularity…

6c   7b+

Posted 2016/05/18 by allend66 in La Mussara, Lo Raval, Rockclimbing

2015-05-19 Spain, La Mussara, Lo Raval   1 comment

Lo Raval, a large and currently unfashionable sector was first developed in 1989/90 by, among others, the legend Joan Chaparro.  With this sector now showing signs of its age, the Centre Excursionista Maspujols will shortly be undertaking a project to reequip the older lines here.

With this in mind we reconnoitre the sector with the intention of climbing and documenting the state of the in-situ protection.  The geography of its location though means it is more prone than most other Mussara sectors, to the occasional fog banks that sweep up the mountainside.  The current protection though is not Inox, so has heavily rusted over the years.  We just have time to climb one line, Rosa Encarnada, 5+ before rain completely soaks the rock and ends the day’s investigation.

In-Situ Protection

There are currently 13 lines designated for rebolting, and these range from 5+ to 7c+.  This might bring the sector back into fashion, although the tendency is for people to populate the easier to approach crags.  Lo Raval though has a slightly strenuous and long descent approach, and combined with the relatively few easy climbs on offer, visitors that come will probably be limited to "fanatics". 

Work is scheduled to begin in late summer.  This will be a nice project to get started, pending some formalities.  News as and when it happens.

Posted 2015/05/29 by allend66 in La Mussara, Lo Raval, Rockclimbing

2013-01-12 La Mussara, Roure   Leave a comment

Only a short day so we’re at the nearest crag.  Roure has some nice things to offer, Infierno De Cobardes, 6a+ for a warmer, then on to the very nice but too short Ones Verticales, 6b.  I had Shargamanta, 6c+ pending and thought I’d just speed-climb it but I forgot a crucial foot during the cross up crux.  Second try sends it – at last.  To finish, I’m on the hard 6c+, Esduguardabaga which has a hard start, hard next section, hard middle and … yep, hard end.  I work it a little, and should send it next time I’m here.

Now to Ca La Sofia to put up the last of the routes…

6a+   6b   6c+   6c+   6c+

Posted 2013/01/12 by allend66 in La Mussara, Rockclimbing, Roure

2012-11-25 La Mussara, Patagonia   Leave a comment

A change is as good as a rest they say.  Today we’re in easy multi-pitch mode on one of Mussara’s classics, Hércules Incuarteable, 6a,6a+,5+.  It’s a lot of fun, and we rappel down after 2 hours on the wall.  A topo from says it’s clean, but it is bolted, and has been for a long time. 

Hercules Incuarteable, 6a,6a+,5+   Pata-Agonia Topical, 6a,6a,5+,6a

After a snack and a drink, we do the 4 pitch Pat-Agonia Topical, 6a,6a,5+,6a though we combo the first two pitches in one, and the last two pitches in another.  Paco opened the first pitch, so by the time I clean then open the upper part, I’ve done 70 continuous meters and with some interesting problems.

6a,6a+,5+   6a,6a,5+,6a

2012-10-14 La Mussara, Roure   Leave a comment

Big Ivan confirmed my suspicions that yesterday Siurana was super crowded.  With the long weekend the world and his wife are in the mountains, thus we go to an unfashionable sector and get a good day in, in relative peace and quiet.  Doll De Lluna, 6a to warm up and then onto Saca La Cinta, Y Vámanos! 6b which is typical old-school La Mussara.  After the technical crack crux at the 4th, there’s a couple of rooves to get past too.  35mtrs and good for mileage though.  Shargamanta, 6c+ which I had worked out last time, spits me out, though my fault getting the feet wrong.  Next time, definitely…

Doll De Lluna, 6a

6a   6b   6c+

Posted 2012/10/14 by allend66 in La Mussara, Rockclimbing, Roure