Archive for the ‘La Mussara’ Category

2012-10-06 La Mussara, Lo Soterrani   2 comments

Rhinolophus De Terra Dura, 6a was one of those climbs that I somehow had never got around to doing… until today.  It was really nice, as are many of the lines in this sector.  Looking at the Rockfax Costa Daurada, admittedly not the best guide in the world, there’s any amount of starred routes here.  The Talker Bom, 6a for example… another great route and a joy to climb, Cristian even onsighting it.

La Cuerda Floja, 6b

While he plays with La Cuerda Floja, 6b, I have a look at El Pez Mas Viajo Del Rio, 7b and need to work it a little.  The crux is 2 bolts at the top of the slightly overhanging middle slab.  I’ll put this on the back burner, but will definitely come back to it – it’s a great line.

6a   6a   7b   7b


Posted 2012/10/06 by allend66 in La Mussara, Lo Soterrani, Rockclimbing

2012-09-16 La Mussara, Les Campaniles   Leave a comment

Instead of driving to the refuge, descending for 40 minutes, climbing and then the gruelling ascent, we park in Vilaplana, ascend for maybe 1 hour to Les Campaniles, a good quality sector but ‘La Mussara’ hard – you can comfortably add a grade to each of the lines.  I wasn’t going to do but had to clean a new route, Plena de Vida, 5+, slightly alpine in style but not at all bad.  Excellent rock quality.  Xell romps up Sipegotimato, 5+.

06a.Les Campanilles

Now I open the hard 6b+, Malla Folla which had a pass at the third clip, and the real crux at the bulge roof.  Even after the thin crimp undercuts to get feet up, there was a dyno, then after the large pockets another thin reachy move. 

The line to the left, No Despistis, 6c was superb crack climbing, with a nails roof to get over.  Layback half of it, take a small three-finger pocket change body direction and up, but easily 6c+.

Amor Vertical, 6b+   Bat Lou, 6a+

Tired, we move on to the excellent Amor Vertical, 6b a very nice climb, and then one of the new routes to the right, Bat Lou, 6a+.  With the sun now completely on the rock and very hot, we leave the other routes for another day and take the Tosques route back down to Vilaplana, stopping for a refreshing swim and snack.  I arrive at home very tired.

5+   6b+   6c   6b   6a+

Posted 2012/09/17 by allend66 in La Mussara, Les Campaniles, Rockclimbing

2012-06-16 La Mussara   Leave a comment

Celebrating the fine work of the Alegre brothers re-equipping routes to coincide with the 50th anniversary of the first lines in La Mussara, this morning we are in and around El TeixRocteam™ and I accompany some of the others from Centre Excursionista Maspujols for some roped climbing, and then later bouldering at Font De La Paula, though as I’m still recovering from the hamstring pull, today I’m only belaying a taking photos…  The evening rounded off in great style in good company – 1º Joan Bou Festival.

2012-06-16 014 ParvulariEl Caputxino.    2012-06-16 110 Font De La PaulaFont De La Paula.   2012-06-16 157 Les Airasses1º Joan Bou Festival.

As usual, if anyone wants a copy of any photos without the watermark, drop me a line

Posted 2012/06/18 by allend66 in bouldering, La Mussara, Rockclimbing

2012-06-06 La Mussara, Roure   Leave a comment

A warm up on Laia, 6a and Atlantida, 6a+ to get going – Mau the bou not having climbed for ages, then we leave Primitiu for Roure and I get on the recommended Tu No Vadis, 6b+ but half way up I slip off a sloper and end up straining my left hamstring.  Here’s the culprit that’s put me off climbing for a couple of weeks:

Tu No Vadis, 6b+

6a   6a+   6b+

Posted 2012/06/07 by allend66 in La Mussara, Primitiu, Rockclimbing, Roure

2012-06-04 La Mussara, Primitiu   Leave a comment

After the weekend’s bouldering trip to Albaracín was scuppered  thanks to a virulent infection, today’s first day climbing in 6 days was just what the doctor ordered: lots of long easy routes.  3 star routes in Primitiu to lube up the joints for tomorrow.  Today we tick Atlantida, 6a+, Lenceria, 6a+, Kalium, 6a done twice, and Laia, 6a.  165mtrs redpointed.

6a+   6a+   6a   6a   6a

Posted 2012/06/04 by allend66 in La Mussara, Primitiu, Rockclimbing

2012-02-12 La Mussara, Lo Soterrani   1 comment

Yesterday’s sesh with Fly in Espero Primavera went well, my lesioned finger not feeling sore at all today (though I did get up with backache and a twinge in my right wrist), and with the cold and wind we decided on Soterrani.  I’ve still got El Pez Mas Viejo Del Rio, 7b to nail, but today is not the day.  We warm up on the super hard Elegosentric, 6a+ which is a 6b, and I salvage a redpoint out of it – the last time I tried this with Meli, I had to abandon it at the crux.  Interestingly, the dude who cleaned it for me last time was there again today, trying the new 7b next to Keops, 7c+.

Not reading the next route well at all, I hang at the crux of Inchala, 6b+.  I lower down and do it clean but the onsight was already blown.

I’d had Capitan Pedales, 6c in my sights for a while, and decided to try it though not feeling particularly strong.  Clip stick the 1st bolt then away.  There’s a fine technical move half way up and a nifty bit of footwork takes care of it, but I loose my sunglasses in the process.  Steady progress up to the roof and I hang at the crux.  2nd attempt gets it and it’s a nice route.  Well climbed, but very nice.  Fly works the 2 cruxes but tops it out like a champ – well done bou.

Capitan Pedales, 6c

Sniffing round El Pez, 7b I decide to repeat instead the 7a next to it Non Pou Essare.  It shares the start and finish of Pez, but takes the vertical crack just to the left.  Overhanging and with no feet, I work the powerful moves resting 3 or 4 times.  Last time I only needed one rest, but I’m happy I’m recovering well and the finger doesn’t hurt at all.  35 metres, this brute, and Fly cleans it on a toprope.  A good day, and almost warm at the foot of the crag.  1.5º in the car going home.

6a+   6b+   6c   7a   Photos

Posted 2012/02/12 by allend66 in La Mussara, Lo Soterrani

2011-12-24 La Mussara, Roure   Leave a comment

Getting over the sniffles I had, it’s been two weeks since I climbed last so no high hopes for today.  Carmen joined us (Bourici & Xell) as I was just getting started on Doll De Lluna, 6a.  La Mussara quality, and 35 meters of it.


We leave it equipped for the girls, and Bou talks me into doing the ‘classic’ Aigua Viva, 6a+.  I had a look at this way back in the day, saw the super polish and thought I’d never bother with it.  Recently, maybe 6 months ago, I sniffed round it again with Meli, but too much polish and a hard start so we walked on.  I’m glad Bou talked me into doing it today though – it is a classic.  But let’s talk about the grading: 6a+ in the refuge guide, 6b in Rockfax, but I’d easily give it 6b+… some of the hand and foot holds are like polished marble!  It’s also a lot harder than the previous “World’s Hardest 6a+” in Diedres Del Mig that has one crux, Aigua you have to fight all the way up.  An onsight that was definitely no gift.

Shargamanta, 7a   Shargamanta, 7a   Shargamanta, 7a

Carmen recommends a 7a next to it, Shargamanta.  Although, again we’re misled slightly by the frankly crap guidebookage for the area.  It’s a 7a in the Alfonso / Buxo guide of 2000, 6c+ in the refuge guide and my Rockfax claims it as a 6c.  The diagrams also indicate the use of Aigua’s anchors to the right though the description says go left up the black vertical crack and mantleshelf at the anchor.  A really hard 6c+ or easy 7a, take your pick, but the crux had me off three times.  A very nice route though, one I’ll repeat next time trying the left hand crack and higher anchor after the rockover.

6a   6a+   7a   Photos

Posted 2011/12/25 by allend66 in La Mussara, Roure